Tailoring meet streetwear as seen on display in Florence .

Florence is a city synonymous with architecture, a place where soaring domes and marble palaces seem to materialise on almost every corner. With that in mind, there’s always something fitting about Pitti Uomo’s AW18 here – perhaps the best cold-weather outfits are defined by a certain architectural quality? At any rate, while Italy may usually conjure up images of summer evenings spent sipping spritzes, believe us: it gets a cold snap, too. Yes, with menswear season in full stride, it’s time to turn our gaze to the better-constructed outfits (and their wearers) making their way through this sartorial winter wonderland. This year features the usual emphasis on impeccable tailoring, but – with a strong showing of streetwear – that’s far from the only thing on offer at Pitti Uomo 93.

Despite the downbeat body language, this is a study in confidence. Indeed, it takes plenty of (quiet but definite) self-assuredness to pull off an ensemble almost entirely comprised of camel. You could argue that flared, striped trousers from a certain Italian brand lack a deftness of touch, but the casual footwear stops everything from getting too heavy-handed. The addition of a crisp, pale collar adds a welcome textural counterpoint.

The drawback of a woollen winter suit is that things can all too easily get a little heavy. Luckily, it’s possible to lighten things up. In this case, a sash belt breaks down what was nearly a slightly stodgy silhouette, while the addition of a lighter, less formal outer layer adds a surprising wabi-sabi twist. The perfectly groomed beard doesn’t hurt, either.

It would be very easy for everything to get too brown here. But, thanks to the opulent shearling collar and trim, the striped club tie and the surprising accent thrown in from the addition of a casual blue button-down, it doesn’t. It takes something special to upstage a perfectly tailored double-breasted suit. But that’s exactly what’s going on here.

Effort. Some people make it, some people don’t, and others spend a long time making it, in an attempt to appear like they haven’t. To be honest, we’re not sure which of the above categories the outfit on the right outfit falls into. And that’s its beauty. A well-tailored pair of green trousers, perfectly fitting woollen outerwear and an understated beret (we didn’t even know that was possible) just out of shot all seem to cohabit effortlessly, whether intentionally or not. What we’re trying to say is: we dig it.

It would be remiss to end a piece on Pitti Uomo without at least a nod to the growing presence of streetwear amid the traditional tailoring. In this example, oversized outer layers and brash logos fight for centre stage, topped (or bottomed?) off with eminently ’grammable footwear from cult streetwear brand Off-White. Seen in the midst of a forest of tailored, structured outfits, it certainly cuts through the crowd.

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