The Seven French Labels You Need To Know

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The Seven French Labels You Need To Know

Words by Mr Stuart Husband

25 May 2016

Add a soupçon of Gallic chic to your wardrobe with our favourite Parisian brands.

While it’s dangerous to trade in national style stereotyping – , , the Americans go for clean-cut basics – it’s safe to say that Frenchmen seem to be effortlessly in fashion and yet beyond it at the same time. After all, this is the country that invented the concept of chic, and its  embody all that the word stands for – elegance, tact and a très subtil modishness (see our  feature about the latest crop of ambassadors). Those are all qualities you’ll find in abundance in the Parisian brands in MR PORTER’s portfolio, from the instant classics offered by new kids on the boulevard  and to the objets d’art with a twist you’ll find at the esteemed likes of  and , not to mention ’s supercharged swank. So turn your back on vulgar trends and embrace le style français.

As its name implies, Ami takes an approachable, companionable, stylishly understated approach to menswear staples. You won’t find any  here – though the odd jaunty  adds some tart piquancy to  and  – or anything too confoundingly outré; just , tapered , fitted white , ribbed , handsome leather  and  and . Wearability is the watchword, reflecting the ethos of Ami founder and Normandy native , who takes elements from his high-fashion training at Dior,  and  – precise cuts, refined fabrics, telling details – to create an effortlessly stylish wardrobe for what he calls “”. Once you’ve embraced Ami, you won’t be unfriending it any time soon.

There’s always been a certain winning insouciance about the clothes at , AKA Atelier de Production et de Creation, founded by Mr Jean Touitou in 1987. It shunned ostentation (then rife in Paris fashion), and quickly won adherents among style insiders for its simple, well-tailored everyday staples such as peacoats, ,  and sweaters inspired by workwear and . Especially popular were its heavy-duty , the absolute antithesis of the dad jeans favoured by  and . We still love the , of course – that’s why they’re among our MR PORTER Essentials – but we also love the relaxed cut of the , the slim fit of the , and the easy slouch of the . “If you want to be trendy, in the end you lose,” says Mr Touitou. His modern classics continue to win us over.

Since its founding in 2012, there has been much buzz about  for several compelling reasons: it mixes tailoring and workwear with particular skill; it deploys the , such as Japanese selvedge Oxford cloths and  cashmere, and it produces everything in Europe, yet keeps prices competitive. Its lovingly crafted pieces – , chambray , loopback  and MR PORTER-exclusive wool-flannel padded  and cotton-jersey  – add up to a refined, understated collection that will enhance any man’s wardrobe. Mr Mahéo’s stealth-luxe aesthetic has already won itself a bunch of devoted fans, who love instant Officine classics such as the  and the cotton-twill . “It’s accessible luxury,” says Mr Mahéo, to which we can only add a hearty mais oui.

You won’t look at anything with a  label for long before the words je, ne, sais and – yes! – quoi come to mind. After all, this is the oldest French couture house still in operation, so you’d expect its wares to have that certain something. In the case of its menswear, overseen by  for the past decade, that would be combining  and tailoring traditions with volume and detailing – raw seams, metallic pieces, washed effects, leather inlays – borrowed from sportswear and marked by a passionate rigour in cut, fabric, and finish. Thus, a comes with zebra-print lapels, a is banded in cotton and scuba-jersey with unfinished edges, and a goes ultra-luxe by being crafted in python. Lanvin’s cult  also come fully and finely arrayed in nubuck and patent leather with metallic flourishes – a whole lot of certain somethings, in fact.

“One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art,” said . What a pity he never slipped his size nines into a pair of exquisite  or , because, according to brand director , its wares are designed with him very much in mind: “quite English” (Mr Wilde, being Irish, is more than qualified here), “refined, elegant and dandy”. The brand was founded in 1891, and each pair of elegant loafers or Oxfords goes through almost 200 ancient and modern construction processes in its Limoges factory. No wonder its fans, from the dapper sapeurs of  to French presidents old and new (Mr François Mitterrand owned 30 identical pairs of Weston’s Blake loafers in kidskin, while Mr Nicolas Sarkozy opted for the vamp-seamed Claridge) are prepared to undergo the two-month break-in period on a new pair of  or . These are shoes that, like Mr Wilde, have nothing to declare but their genius.

After  took the reins of the quintessential Parisian brand in 2012, it underwent a physical – and spiritual – relocation from the rive gauche to  when he moved the HQ to . While retaining the label’s Gallic irreverence and sleek craftsmanship, he gave the clothes a SoCal spin. The distressed denim western , leopard-print satin , skinny  and snake-effect leather  of  are more after-party-at-Chateau-Marmont than le-smoking-at-Le-Queen. The buzz around Saint Laurent, already deafening, has reached tinnitus levels since Mr Slimane’s abrupt departure and Mr Anthony Vaccarello’s arrival in the hot seat earlier this year, but there’s still time to get your hands on a small  or  slice of fashion history.

To say that  has a way with shoes is rather like saying that Mr Genghis Khan wasn’t too bad at marauding. The venerable Parisian brand, founded in 1895, combines painstaking workmanship and uniquely alluring patinas to such a heightened degree that its devotees have been known to gather at soirées where they polish their footwear with Venetian linen dipped in Dom Pérignon . Over the past few years, the brand has expanded to include equally exquisitely finished clothes and accessories, available online exclusively at MR PORTER. These are investment pieces, from the nubuck  and cashmere  to the  and linen . The dégradé leather , burnished  and leather-trimmed  offer a playful spin on  (upscale cleaning cloths and vintage fizz not supplied).