The Five New Rules of Party Dressing

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The Five New Rules of Party Dressing

Words by Mr Stephen Doig

21 November 2018

What to wear to every event this social season, with style tips from the men who did it well.

Men’s evening attire is a tricky beast at the best of times – how swiftly a sleek tuxedo and bow tie can go from Mr Cary Grant to Carry On Cocktails as the average man shifts uncomfortably in his unfamiliar get-up – but the festive season brings with it that extra degree of pressure. There’s an expectancy to dress “up”; elevate an evening outfit beyond the average and add a touch of pizzazz. The difficulty here is that you can end up adrift in unchartered waters in what may have looked like an appropriately festive, embroidered blazer that somehow ends up bordering into game show host territory.

Luckily, there has been a shift in party perception in recent years; what once would have had your great uncle choking on the vol-au-vents is now acceptable attire. Perhaps the soundest advice, which stands for how to throw the best party as well as how to dress for it, is to not be so hung up on rules. Forget matching your dress studs to your cufflinks and instead deconstruct the codes of evening dress. Just add a stiff martini.

Don’t discount the workaday knit as an item that has no place in an after-dark ensemble. In recent years, the polo neck has become an informed choice as an alternative to the starched, formal shirt. It’s sleek, minimal and in a muted black or grey, lets a well-cut blazer or tuxedo do the talking. Opt for a version in lightweight wool so that it doesn’t bulk out your jacket, like Mr Armie Hammer, or go for a neat cashmere crew neck with a tuxedo instead for a more low-key stance, like his Call Me By Your Name co-star Mr Timothée Chalamet. Peachy.

This is tumultuous terrain, but a trend that has bubbled away for a while now; donning a tuxedo with nary a shred of Sea Island cotton underneath. But if you’ve got it, a host of designers from Dries Van Noten to Officine Generale believe you can flaunt it. Follow the styling tips of the former by opting for a softer silhouette so that it’s not overtly body-con, and perhaps throw an evening scarf on; it’s chilly out there.

The suit’s under an extreme amount of scrutiny at the moment, and its latest iteration sees it recast in soft, subtle shades. Festive dressing might rely on dark jewel tones or midnight blues and blacks, but the likes of Mr Kim Jones at Dior Men and Mr Alessandro Sartori at Zegna have made a case for the pastel suit, the former in lemon and sherbet hues and the latter in cerulean blues and fawn tones. What is Christmas without a little sugary indulgence, after all?

Perfect for when a party requires you to pop in and make a swift exit without disrobing, a bold statement coat is a one-stop shop. It makes an impact without requiring a huge amount of effort, and looks suitably occasion-ready. Eschew performance outerwear pieces in favour of something more glamorous, such as a sweeping overcoat in lavish jacquard from Gucci, or vivid zebra print from Saint Laurent for a touch of Sir Mick Jagger swagger. Yours might be a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it appearance, but you’ll be remembered.

Just as sneakers with a suit have become a mainstay, so too is the trainers-with-tux look gaining momentum; two years after Mr Novak Djokovic showcased his adidas sneakers on the red carpet with a classic black tuxedo, Stormzy took the red carpet at the Brit Awards this year by, erm, storm in a gleaming metallic silver Richard James tuxedo and crisp white trainers. It takes the stuffiness out of formal attire and looks suitably dynamic; you’ll be ready to sprint to the bar at a moment’s notice.

_The people featured in this story are not associated with and do not endorse _MR PORTER or the products shown

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