THE JOURNAL
Mr Matthew Broderick in Ferris Bueller’s Day Off (1986). Photograph by Paramount Pictures/Capital Pictures
The casual-wear tsunami has been one of the most seismic tremors in the world of men’s style over the past decade. What once was deemed acceptable solely for the gym is now commonplace in the boardroom. Today, that guy in a hoodie and baseball cap in front of you in the queue for your morning coffee could well be the CEO of a FTSE 100 company. Blame the tech bros (actually, there’s a lot we can blame Mr Zuckerberg and his ilk for, it transpires). They swept into Palo Alto in their cashmere sweatpants and gilets (the Facebook titan actually favours Brunello Cucinelli T-shirts in meetings), eager to identify themselves as different to their swollen, captain-of-industry peers who traditionally sat behind a desk in pinstripes. They were more dynamic, more woke – and to demonstrate this stylistically, the smart Oxfords and starched shirts were swapped out for cult sneakers and organic cotton T-shirts. The most notable example of this is Mr Jeff Bezos, who went from middle-management shirts and ties to polo shirts, gilets and cargo trousers. Where is this all leading, you ask? Well, @guwanc.77 has a question to pose…
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When 95 per cent of other students are underdressed, what should I wear to college?
From @guwanc.77, via Instagram
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From the tech campus to the college campus, your query is pertinent because it’s one that many men are currently grappling with – how should you dress if you aren’t comfortable in casual? Your peers might ape the “scumbro” trend – see a dishevelled Mr Justin Bieber’s straggly hair, low-slung track pants and stained tie-dye T-shirt – but you clearly want something more “together” and upright.
We’d hazard a guess that you’re in your late teens or early twenties, in which case, it would be advisable not to go too far into stuffy sartorial territory that runs the risk of ageing you. The Ivy League, collegiate style of Polo Ralph Lauren is a good reference point here – the American designer has perfected that aesthetic of easy sophistication. So, let’s start with one of the brand’s mainstays: the blazer.
While it might seem a tad officious, a soft-structure, knitted variety of blazer might help you feel more pulled together without being overly formal. Versions in technical fabrics are also easier and more downplayed than more structured varieties. And instead of opting for a shirt – the blazer’s familiar bedfellow – consider a polo shirt instead. The collar will add a smart element, but it’s a more relaxed way to wear a blazer. Likewise – and this is a styling tip straight from the codes of Mr Lauren – wearing a playful knit or jersey sweater with a blazer is an informed way to lighten the mood. You’re a college student after all, not tied to the demands of working life just yet.
While chinos are the most natural option when it comes to trousers – the everyman of the pants department, if you will – don’t entirely write off jeans. Selvedge denim is more rigid and structured than softer varieties, so it has a crisp shape and form, and a dark wash will look more grown up than a light one. Team yours with a blazer to exude preppy élan.
Consider, too, your accessories roster. Your classmates might be wedded to the trusty backpack, but a handsome leather pouch will set you apart from the rest. One in sleek brown leather tucked neatly under your arm will blend scholarly vim with sophistication. And don’t be too quick to discount sneakers – the luxification of the sneaker has been one of the most consistent stories in menswear in recent years, and has elevated a casual item to new heights. A pair in suede or leather, particularly in a dark hue, will stand worlds apart from their scuffed, slovenly brethren.
And finally, just to reiterate a point we made at the start – speaking as a jaded thirtysomething who’s been desk side for more years than I’d care to admit – don’t be in too much of a rush to be overly formal. You’ve got a whole lifetime of smart suits ahead.