Make like the American, British and Dutch navies and get this season’s nautical-inspired outwear right. Here’s which to go for, and what to wear them with.

Some things are so simple and well made that their design becomes “classic”, or unimprovable. Take the Post-it note, for example. Something so ergonomic that it hasn’t been altered since it was invented in 1968. Or how about the glass Coca-Cola bottle? This receptacle, first created in 1916, is so well designed that many insist to this day that their favourite fizzy drink tastes better when drunk from it. There are examples of iconic design in the world of fashion, too, but often their origins are a little murkier. Take the peacoat – a classic creation which hasn’t changed much at all since its birth. There are references in some American newspapers to peacoats as far back as 1720, but the clearest association is with the navy. In the 1800s, an early iteration of the peacoat (pijakker) was worn by the Dutch navy – who used the word “pij” (“pea”) to describe a coat made from course wool. The British navy popularised it, and then the US navy took it on board for its warming, durable qualities. Today, more than 200 years later, the peacoat still crops up – in the collections of designers seeking to preserve its iconic design, whilst subtly modernising it. Here are three new to MR PORTER (with some little tweaks that we like).

When we said the design of the peacoat had not changed since its creation – we weren’t taking into consideration that designers sometimes like to modernise them. This one is made from a mottled blue wool-blend bouclé fabric, which simply would not have washed among 19th-century sailors. But, happily, most of us will be wearing this in town or on public transport as opposed to the deck of a boat – perhaps with these simple black slim-fit jeans from PS by Paul Smith.

Not only is this also made from a material you would not have found on an original peacoat – this time grey herringbone – it also has some additional details to modernise the design. Epaulettes – often associated with military wear such as trench coats – change the silhouette of this peacoat making it appear a little smarter and more commanding. Again, neither military men nor navy men would probably have stood for it, or would have dared pair it with some sleek Grenson wingtip brogues, but we don’t mind one bit.

Probably the most loyal to the original peacoat design of the three, this piece from modern British tailoring brand Thom Sweeney has the the big woolly appearance of the navy coats of old (yet this time it’s nice soft cashmere that’ll keep you warm) as well as the oversize notch lapels. It’s on the slimmer side in terms of fit to keep it contemporary, but this is still a classic coat that will prove to be a worthy investment. Try it over a plain white tee, such as this one from Club Monaco.

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