How To Wear The Autumn/Winter 2018 Men’s Collections Now
It’s never too early to start thinking about your new-season wardrobe
To raise the words “autumn” and “winter” at this point in the year might seem terribly impatient. But fashion is an impatient business, and impatient businesses are largely driven by impatient clients. By which we mean, it’s time to look into your soul and ask yourself a deep question: wouldn’t you like to get cracking on the new stuff now? Of course you would. Scroll down, then, for our guide to the best clothing from the new season available now (or soon) on MR PORTER.
Dries Van Noten
As is evident from the early drops of Dries Van Noten’s autumn/winter collection, it’s a real trip. Metallic intarsia knits, retro checked tailoring, satin cowboy shirts and psychedelic marbling prints combine to create something akin to a natural high in the wardrobe department. Look out for the lightweight printed trench – it’s exclusive to MR PORTER.
How to wear it: pick one print and pair it with contrasting check tailoring
The world’s foremost purveyor of insouciant, Parisian cool is the place to go this season for the perfect peacoat. And, yes, leather trousers and sparkly sweaters. The former is a little easier to carry off than the latter, but, as with most things, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try. As fans of the brand know, it’s all about attitude, and there’s plenty of that here.
How to wear it: opt for skinny jeans if leather’s not your thing – the Saint Laurent look is neat, sleek and simple
TOM FORD is revving up for winter with a typically glamorous take on classic tailoring, mixing the traditional with the outré. The rollneck pictured above, for example, is rendered in a shimmering metallic yarn. It’s thoroughly office appropriate. If your office is a bit like Studio 54.
How to wear it: pick contrasting separates and wear with a denim shirt or turtleneck
There’s a moody elegance to Berluti’s AW18 collection, expressed via vertiginously deep shades of burgundy and charcoal. Expect the best cuts and fabrics with a distinctly Parisian sense of louche up-all-night-ness.
How to wear it: pick up the velvet tuxedo – it’s a trending fabric and will sort you out for every remaining party this side of 2019
What do you do when the entire fashion industry is following in your footsteps? Why, you blaze a trail even further forward, that’s what. And Gucci is doing it via, er, shell suits. Yes, we know what you’re thinking, but these, influenced by 1990s sportswear, are something quite special. Of course, we’re being facetious too – it’s far from all that’s in Mr Alessandro Michele’s superbly eclectic winter offering. Head to the brand’s page on MR PORTER to be delighted by arch fake logotypes, a menagerie of animal prints, streetwise down jackets and, new for this season, a collaboration with the New York Yankees. Because, why not?
How to wear it: however you like – clashing colours, prints and patterns are all part of Mr Michele’s thrift-inspired style
Designer Mr Virgil Abloh is a deconstructor of things, a fact most noticeable in his penchant for covering everything with meta-fashion descriptors and quotation marks, but also evident in the slyly reworked Americana staples that are being delivered as the early ambassadors of the Off-White autumn/winter 2018 collection.
How to wear it: temper the eye-catching colours and prints with black jeans and box-fresh tennis sneakers
Since it was launched in 2014, AMIRI has become one of the world’s most successful luxury brands. It’s also, arguably, one of its most consistent. What you’re getting here is straight-up Hollywood rock-star style, replete with ripped skinny jeans, frayed plaid shirts and high-end reinventions of thrift store finds. Fans of the label will know what to expect this winter, but will be nonetheless delighted with the early arrivals, including some expertly destroyed and tie-dye pieces, oversized intarsia knitwear and the corduroy jacket above, which is embellished with the word “Lovers”.
How to wear it: grab a tie-dye sweater (if you can) and wear it with AMIRI’s lovingly distressed skinny jeans
In his quest to reinvigorate the tired clichés of the male wardrobe, Thom Browne is continually going to places other designers fear to tread, yet the tools the brand uses are rather straightforward. Checks, stripes and classic knitwear patterns combine in his early winter offerings, but not quite how you might think. The blouson jacket above, rendered in a lightweight mohair madras check, is a fine example of just what that means.
How to wear it: mix the quirky with the dependable, and balance out a bush shirt or jacket with beige chinos, turned up to ankle height
“Subtlety”, “depth” and “richness” are words that typically come to mind when perusing the wares of Brunello Cucinelli, the Solomeo-based brand that’s known for its exceptionally high-quality luxury casualwear. And this autumn, it’s no different. Working with a warm, autumnal colour palette of orange, brown and burgundy alongside incredibly tactile corduroy and cashmere fabrics, Mr Cucinelli has, as they say, done it again.
How to wear it: combine complementary shades of brown, burgundy and orange – you can’t really go wrong
Moncler Oversized Striped Shell-Trimmed Gabardine Hooded Parka Coming soon
Moncler Fair Isle Wool-Blend Sweater Coming soon
Goodness gracious, the 1990s seem to be back. But sort of rebranded, by Givenchy. Yes, the Parisian superbrand’s latest menswear offerings are heavily inspired by that nylon-heavy, slogan-tastic era, with wry reinventions of classic sportswear pieces, including the quilted jacket, the Moto jersey and the polo shirt. Wear the logo with pride, as part of your growing collection of designer streetwear.
How to wear it: loud and proud. Try the denim jacket with a sweatshirt, shell trousers and Nike sneakers
Combining tried and tested performance with an understated sense of style, Moncler’s mainline collection is as neat and sporty as you could want it to be. It marries easy-to-wear shades of navy and olive with smart pops of the brand’s trademark red, white and blue stripes.
How to wear it: match a down parka with a fun (and rather festive) patterned knit sweater
Never a million miles away from the 1970s, Prada has delivered some particularly charming retro pieces for the early part of the season, from stupendous shearling coats to a wool-blend varsity jacket. Expect to see plenty of pieces justifying this season’s brown trend here.
How to wear it: complement the brown tones with Off-White shirting and black trousers
The “It” brand of the moment continues to delight with its transmogrification of all things 1980s, from striped sweaters to stone-washed, straight-fit “dad” jeans and more. Look out for the clever composite garments, constructed to give the illusion of layers, and the new shell outerwear, which comes in typically vibrant retro colours.
How to wear it: think top heavy – try an oversized sweater with straight, slim jeans
Pastels and checks, checks and pastels. If Acne Studios has any say on the matter, those two words will soon be as familiar as old favourites like “gin” and “tonic” or “bangers” and “mash”. At least, that seems a reasonable way to interpret the Swedish brand’s latest offerings which, if we’re to take a less whimsical turn, also include some of the season’s most wearable, yet interesting, coats. See above as evidence.
How to wear it: with a hoody and a coat. Mr Kanye West has done it, why shouldn’t you?
Deconstruction in fashion is all the rage now, but it’s something that Maison Margiela has been excelling at since the mid-1990s, when it was founded by designer Mr Martin Margiela. Now with Mr John Galliano at the helm, the maison is still fighting this good fight, albeit with a slightly more droll and romantic bent than of yore. And this much is plain to see in the season’s early drops. The star product has to be the oversized trench coat, above, which comes with a hairy rope belt that looks like it was snatched off a ghost ship. It’s an unconventional piece that is excellent at hiding in plain sight.
How to wear it: tie the belt at the back and let your trench hang loosely open