Such is the cyclical nature of fashion that each time a new season rolls around you’ll find us scratching our heads and muttering “Where have I seen that before?” Well, the January drop from MR PORTER’s in-house brand Mr P. seems to be inspired by the East Village beatniks of the 1960s and their collegiate counterparts. And it is, to a point. But it goes much deeper. In fact, this is our nod to the preppy style that defined Japan’s Ametora look, an enduring trend kick-started by the 1965 fashion photography book Take Ivy, which introduced the nation to the clothing popular on American Ivy League campuses in the mid-20th century. 

This look was eagerly adopted in Japan and the items of clothing themselves – Oxford shirts and varsity jackets – rebuilt from the ground up, employing premium fabrics with painstaking attention to detail, to produce something that elevated its source material. Likewise, Mr P.’s aim here is to take that inspiration and push things further – and make contemporary clothing that works right now. This very minute.

So, while each piece is somehow simultaneously infused with the youthful irreverence of a Downtown poet and the clean-cut prep of a Harvard man, it’s the technical elements across the collection that make every item stand out. Of course, it all comes down to the styling (beret vs letterman jacket: choose your weapon), but in our books, every last one is a winner.

“Know your angles” is good advice for the selfie generation; it’s also good advice for those in the market for a sharp spring raincoat. This stone parka’s boxy shape will shelter you from spring downpours while you run up Houston Street, cutting a dashing, if low-key, figure. Incorporating the iconic fishtail of the original M65, this update is made from two layers of bonded cotton, offering durability. Plus, there’s a roomy, adjustable hood. We’re nothing if not practical over here at MR PORTER HQ.

You know that scene in Mad Men, when Donald Draper shed his sharkskin suit and let his hair go floppy to build a backyard playhouse for Sally? Even loose and unbuttoned, he still looked like a man on top of the world and so can you if you play your sartorial cards right. This pattern mix – Tencel checked shirt over a long-sleeved Breton tee – is an off-kilter power play, and the sharpness of the trousers anchors the whole get-up. All you need now is a beer (or 10).

If you’re going to splash out on a suede or leather jacket, allow us to give you some unconventional advice: do not play it safe. Yes, a black leather bomber is classic, and a brown suede blouson is sleek. But a buttery burnt-orange zip-up with clean lines and a classic collar? That’s a bold conversation piece, and one that will garner compliments galore – we guarantee it.

This piece is definitely more college man than Crosby Street man, which is why it looks particularly good with a navy rollneck to give it a little edge. Pair both of these Italian-made items with our new prep-worthy pleated trousers – the roomy fit and cropped length are a modern alternative to too-tight denim. Now, we’re not saying this is a costumey get-up, but a tiny espresso and a beat-up copy of Mr Allen Ginsberg’s Howl – or even Mr W David Marx’s Japanese Ivy League style bible, Ametora – will effortlessly complete the look.

Sorry, we’re not out of coat season just yet. But there’s light at the end of the tunnel and there’s light in this checked overcoat, which provides a welcome respite from all the navy and black in our losets. That said, do feel free to slip on your easiest go-to winter outfit underneath – this coat will do all the cheery work for you.