Here we are again: the fast-moving merry-go-round of fashion has swung round once more and its gaily-coloured horses – that is, this season’s new trends – are transfixing us with their mad, glassy eyes. Or something like that.

But, how is it all looking? In truth, in this post-haute-streetwear, anything-goes era, it becomes increasingly difficult to provide pithy summaries of the comings and goings of men’s style. But if we were going to give a general indication of spring’s predilections, it would be: still rather loose and relaxed, somewhat bohemian, but undeniably a little more grown-up than last year (if you forgive the odd crochet cardigan or two).

Of course, there are also plenty of options for the wild cards among us, primarily thanks to a growing sense of quirky homemade-ness that has been infusing collections as the fashion world gloms on to the idea that slick, mass-produced luxury is beginning to look less and less appealing at a time of growing eco-consciousness. Does it mean, by next year, we’ll all be storming around in hessian sacks? Well, no one saw the Triple S coming, did they?

In the meantime, if you’re interested in a slightly more granular (and less speculative) look at what you’re going to be wearing this spring, do scroll down.

There was a definitive suit renaissance for the AW19 season, and designers seem to have, uncharacteristically un-capriciously, carried on this preoccupation for spring. Obviously, though, a suit is a different proposition in warm weather, which is why brands such as Balenciaga and AMI are offering theirs in fine fabrics and capacious volumes. Tailored shorts seem to be a big deal, too, and, interestingly, there is also a summer tailoring feel to some of the more workwear-inspired pieces, such as the above lightweight chore jacket from Parisian brand Lemaire, and a nifty two-piece ensemble from Dries Van Noten, which comes in a suit-like woven tan fabric with a subtle pinstripe.

The new tailoring is casual and comfortable, so feel free to mix and match separates in complementary colours, or wear a suit jacket over a T-shirt or polo. If you’re not into the idea of a suit per se, but still want to make a bit of a statement, you can experiment with the workwear version: a chore jacket or Harrington with matching trousers. It’s halfway between a suit and a tracksuit, which is a grey area we’ve grown to rather like.

Once again, for SS20, designers are looking back to the so-called decade that style forgot. Of course, style has now remembered this particular period on so many different occasions in recent years that we’re not sure the “style forgot” part applies any longer. Instead we should be calling it “the decade that style simply can’t leave alone”, because it’s evident that, in the world that has formed in the wake of Gucci’s Mr Alessandro Michele, there is still so much richness to be squeezed from the era. This spring, it’s very much about a bohemian, California-fied look, which nods towards musical pioneers such as Mr Jimi Hendrix (whose psychedelic graphics were incorporated into AMIRI’s spring collection) and Sir Mick Jagger (who was a key inspiration for Mr Anthony Vaccarello at SAINT LAURENT). Meanwhile, brands such as Sweden’s Séfr continue to offer up wide-collared and sepia-tinted garments that nod to the era’s silhouettes and colour palettes, while Dries Van Noten offered Lurex knitwear and floral prints, edging into the sartorial territory of glam rock.

Perhaps Googling “Jim Morrison” is the easiest way to educate yourself in this particular look. Or, for a more contemporary angle, you could try “Ben Cobb” – the newly announced co-editor-in-chief of Love magazine has been behind this trend since before it was even a trend. In general, the easiest way to go more 1970s is through colour: look for shades of brown, orange and yellow, and mix them together to your heart’s delight. But there are other more strident pieces that are part and parcel of this trend: look for shirts with long, pointed collars, trousers with a slight flare at the bottom, and, if the budget will stretch to it, a tan suede jacket.

As the conversation around sustainability and authenticity in clothing production continues to become ever more pressing, it’s hardly a surprise that we’re tuning our aesthetic sensibilities in the direction of craft and artisanship. In fact, one of the most interesting new brands in contemporary menswear, Ms Emily Bode’s eponymous label BODE, is almost entirely based around the idea of heirloom techniques – such as quilting, crochet and hand-embroidery – as well as the use of recycled vintage fabrics. But it is far from alone. Look to Story Mfg. for sustainably produced tie-dye and embroidered garments. Or Japanese brand KAPITAL for rustic-looking garments printed and dyed using traditional techniques. The look is homespun and pattern-heavy, harking back to a time when decoration was a sign not just of ostentation, but care and ingenuity.

This trend might seem like something of a carte blanche when it comes to mixing fabrics and textures, but there is a difference between “eccentric” and “sloppy” when it comes to dressing, so a little bit of restraint is a good idea. Here, start with one statement piece, such as KAPITAL’s quilted collarless jacket, above, and build your outfit around it – clashing patterns can work if they share a similar palette, but a different sense of scale. See, for example, the harmonious combination of BODE’s crocheted overshirt and OrSlow’s tie-dyed denim jeans, above.

How can the 1970s and the 1990s be a trend at the same time? Don’t ask us: we don’t make these decisions. Of course, in a world that is mostly mediated through Instagram feeds and Pinterest boards, there’s no reason why we can’t cherry-pick style tips from two eras simultaneously, though we would perhaps advise against trying to incorporate them both into a single outfit, which could get messy. The 1990s skate look is, in fact, merely the next phase in streetwear, albeit with a newly nostalgic touch that makes bright colour-blocking (as in the popover top from Prada, above) and a slightly washed-out palette (see this brown tie-dye T-shirt from Story Mfg.) more central to the agenda.

Yes, it’s controversial, but we’re officially re-greenlighting the short-sleeved-tee-over-long-sleeved-tee thing. Many of the older millennials in the MR PORTER office grew up with it, and seeing it again feels like welcoming a disgraced relative back into the family fold. It’s not, however, compulsory to dig out your old NOFX and Pennywise records. Unless you really, really want to, of course.

Denim is never a “no” when it comes to the male wardrobe, but usually the compass of said fabrics covers two garments: blue jeans and a trucker jacket. Not so in spring 2020, in which designers have fielded many different denim options in many different colours and treatments, from Bottega Veneta’s raw denim overshirt, above, to the tan-coloured jeans on offer from Dries Van Noten and the vibrantly printed denim jackets proposed by the likes of Versace and Casablanca, the latter arriving on MR PORTER for the first time this season. Of course, the regular denim aficionados are still at it. Parisian brand AMI is continuing its quest to cut the perfect pair of tapered jeans. Japanese brands such as visvim, Remi Relief and Blue Blue Japan are offering more and more authentic vintage washes. The Off-Whites and AMIRIs of this world are still gleefully subjecting their jeans to various forms of destruction. At least there are some things we can rely upon in this chaotic world, eh?

This is not rocket science: much of the point of denim is that it goes with almost anything. However, if you’re going for a printed, oversized or heavily distressed piece, it’s usually a good idea to pair it with something simple in a contrasting colour, to create a sense of balance. Various blue denim pieces can be combined together, of course, but it usually looks a bit better if they are slightly different shades, as in the image above.

If there’s one brand that embodies the predominance of leather in this spring’s collections, it is Bottega Veneta, a formerly rather conservative luxury house that has recently got a sleek new look from creative director Mr Daniel Lee. And by sleek we mean lots and lots of animal skin, in every corner of the wardrobe. And so, here we have for your delectation a pair of leather shorts, cut as if for basketball, with an elasticated waistband. No, it’s not the first item you might think to throw in your summer holiday suitcase, but it is, nonetheless, a new and intriguing proposition that reflects the wider reliance on leather for spring 2020.

When it comes to leather, budget will always combine with common sense to help you do it properly. Besides, an outfit probably only needs one leather piece in it if it’s still to be suitable for real life, and most people will only be able to afford one (at a time) anyway. Beyond that, we would recommend an approach that emphasises contrasts. Try teaming your glossy leather jacket, for example, with a pair of textured trousers or light linen sweater. Pair deep-black pieces with garments in lighter colours: peach, tan, brown. The safe way to wear it is with a jacket – look to The Row if your bank account is as expansive as your appetite for rarefied minimalism. But if you’re feeling a little more daring (and, let’s face it, don’t have any teenage children to roll their eyes at you), then perhaps opt for a pair of black leather trousers in place of your usual skinny jeans – SAINT LAURENT has just the pair.