THE JOURNAL
Plus, how MR PORTER selects its trends, and speaking of which – are socks and sandals really a thing?.
The three questions from our readers that we have chosen this week are wildly different to each other. The first, and lead question relates to items that are essential. Clothes that can form the foundation of any wardrobe. Clothes that are classic and versatile. Then, we have a query regarding our trends. This, by the intrinsic nature of “trends”, concerns clothing that is a little more transient. Style that is au courant rather than classic. And, lastly, we have a man wondering about socks with sandals. Never a dull moment. Find out what we had to say, below.
And if you have your own question, don’t hesitate to contact asky@mrporter.com or reach out to us on our social media channels.
If you were starting a wardrobe from scratch, what five clothing items would have to be included?
Starting a wardrobe from scratch is no mean feat. Most of us have never done it, of course, having some sartorial patrimony from yesteryear, some odds and ends that just about fit. To start from zero seems a daunting task. But, that said, you asked the question, so we’ll answer it.
First off, we would get a decent pair of shoes. And what are better, more versatile, stylish and hardy than these John Lobb City II leather Oxfords? Not much, we would say. So that is your feet sorted but what of the rest of you? You’ll want a versatile jacket if you only have five things in the closet – this Aspesi slim-fit cotton-twill bomber jacket in a vivid blue is perfect for this interregnum between periods, such as now, when it is neither cold nor hot.
For more formal occasions, weddings, christenings, parties for your Uncle Spencer’s birthday, you will need a suit. We suggest this blue, slim-fit, wool-twill suit from Ermenegildo Zegna. That dark blue hue will see you through any number of social obligations – well worth the investment.
Now to off-duty wear. We suggest you buy the shirt of the season: a camp-collar number, by Sandro. It is light, bright and as summer as sunburn. We suggest wearing it with a pair of light-blue APC petit standard slim-fit selvedge denim jeans.
Follow our counsel and you will have a wardrobe you can rely on.
Try these
How do you decide which trends to showcase?
It all starts with a road trip. Twice a year, we send representatives from our buying and editorial teams to the men’s fashion shows. These take place over the course of two or three weeks in January and June. During that time, we travel between London, Milan, Paris and New York, attend dozens of presentations, visit hundreds of designer showrooms and drink literally thousands of cups of coffee. Once we’ve taken everything into account, we place orders for the things we like (and the things we think you’ll like). By the time we get back home, we’ve usually got a good idea of which trends are going to define the coming season.
How do we identify them? It’s an art, not a science; there are no golden rules. Some trends are overwhelmingly influenced by a single designer, as in the case of Gucci and the trend for 1970s-style eyewear, while others appear across the board. The oversized look, for example, popped up everywhere from Balenciaga to Acne Studios this season. We avoid jumping on the hype bandwagon where possible. We like trends that reflect a movement towards a new industry standard, rather than flash-in-the-pan trends that you’ll look back on with regret in a year’s time. We try to be as diverse as we can, too. In our opinion, a good list should include trends that are general – a certain fabric, for instance, or a certain colour – as well as others that are more specific. Oh, and we try to stick to 10 trends per season, just to keep things simple.
Remember, of course, that this is all highly subjective. The trends we’ve chosen to highlight are not just a reflection of the current mood in menswear, but also of the tastes and opinions of MR PORTER’s editors and buyers. We’ve picked the things that we like, in other words. We trust that you like them, too.
Try these
A good question, Mr Lewis – socks and sandals are currently having what might be referred to within the industry as “a moment”, so we can tell you have your eye on the ball when it comes to the changing winds of style. The bad news is that said ball rolls about as it pleases, and is constantly at mercy to the ungraspable whims of fashion designers’ creativity, and what celebrities are wearing to go to and from a yoga class.
You may think that fashion has rules, but in truth there’s nothing the industry delights in more than flouting sartorial convention – that’s why you’ve seen over-oversized clothing, dad sneakers, and those tiny Matrix-esque sunglasses proliferate over the past few months. Call it hyperaware ironic dressing if you want, but trends that were previously considered “unacceptable” making their way back into fashion insiders’ wardrobes – and subsequently trickling down to the masses – is just how the game works.
Socks and sandals are part of this, and the historically offensive combination has been gaining traction recently after being spotted everywhere from at the runway shows for trend bellwether brands like Prada and Vetements, to on the feet of Messrs David Beckham and Justin Bieber. Because of the combination’s controversial reputation, it’s unlikely you’ll get away with wearing it without some naysayer teasing you for it, so if you’re going to do it, you’ll need the confidence to commit.
Generally, sports socks and pool slides work well together, and have been tried-and-tested by countless pro athletes and celebrities for a good while now. These socks from Japanese streetwear brand Flagstuff paired with these slides from Off-White get our seal of approval. There are also a number of suede or velvet slides from brands like CMMN SWDN and adidas that practically demand to be worn with socks. Saying that, pool slides are not the only option, as there are an increasing number of stylish and sporty sandals that will also look good with a pair of sports-minded socks – these ones from Hender Scheme are a great example.
We know we said that thing above about rules being redundant, but we’ll still advise that you don’t try this trend with, say, some leather gladiator sandals and a pair of fine-knitted work socks – some things just don’t look nice together. Still, there’s always next season, and depending on what happens we may have to eat our words.
Try these
