The Pitti Peacock Has A Brand-New Look

6 days agoWords by Mr Ashley Clarke

Pitti, January 2020. All photographs by Mr Christian Vierig/Getty Images

With their polished brogueswaistcoats festooned with pocket-watch chains and tailoring almost as sharp as their twizzled moustaches, for better or worse, the feted peacocks of Pitti Uomo have defined much of what “menswear” meant over the past decade. Perhaps it was the chunky sneakers that finally did it, but after taking a kicking from streetwear, the men who strut around at Florence’s biannual menswear trade show are quite different creatures in 2020. That’s not to say tailoring is gone, of course (Firenze doesn’t give up its darted jackets so easily), but nowadays, it’s a more relaxed, workwear-influenced, streetwise peacock that sticks his head above the crowd. Here are five of them that exemplify what it now means to be a Pitti peacock.