Where To Eat Big In Paris, According To The Co-Founder Of Big Mamma

December 2019Words by Mr Ben Olsen

Cafeteria of La Felicità. Photograph by Mr Jérôme Galland, courtesy of La Felicità

There was a welcome injection of exuberance across the London dining scene in 2019. A slew of new restaurants pairing OTT decor with look-at-me menus opened their doors, with two in particular leading the charge. Gloria in Shoreditch and Circolo Popolare in Marylebone were launched by restaurateurs Mr Victor Lugger and Mr Tigrane Seydoux, founders of the Big Mamma group. Their more-is-more interior design and rave reviews made for a memorable London debut.

Yet it’s back home in Paris where the duo’s presence is most pronounced and the arrival of their ninth restaurant in the city will expand their empire further. Libertino is a 220-seat trattoria on rue de Paradis that, as is now the group’s trademark, pairs 1970s kitsch with superlative pizza, cicchetti and cocktails, in this case served from a rotating bar. Ahead of its opening, we asked Mr Lugger to suggest some similarly memorable spots to eat in the French capital.

Café Oberkampf