THE JOURNAL
Cafeteria of La Felicità. Photograph by Mr Jérôme Galland, courtesy of La Felicità
There was a welcome injection of exuberance across the London dining scene in 2019. A slew of new restaurants pairing OTT decor with look-at-me menus opened their doors, with two in particular leading the charge. Gloria in Shoreditch and Circolo Popolare in Marylebone were launched by restaurateurs Mr Victor Lugger and Mr Tigrane Seydoux, founders of the Big Mamma group. Their more-is-more interior design and rave reviews made for a memorable London debut.
Yet it’s back home in Paris where the duo’s presence is most pronounced and the arrival of their ninth restaurant in the city will expand their empire further. Libertino is a 220-seat trattoria on rue de Paradis that, as is now the group’s trademark, pairs 1970s kitsch with superlative pizza, cicchetti and cocktails, in this case served from a rotating bar. Ahead of its opening, we asked Mr Lugger to suggest some similarly memorable spots to eat in the French capital.
Café Oberkampf
“The 11th arrondissement has become a real foodie hub and Café Oberkampf is a perfect starting point for a day of eating and exploring in Paris,” says Mr Lugger. “It has this amazing piping-hot banana bread that arrives with a slice of butter on top that melts in your mouth – absolutely divine. Definitely order anything that has halloumi on it, too. They get it direct from Cyprus and it’s excellent quality.”
Sauvage
“The 6th arrondissement is great for seeing some amazing old-glamour architecture in Paris and if you happen to be there around lunchtime, definitely pay Sauvage a visit. They have a lot of seafood dishes and often experiment with the ingredients to create unexpected combinations, such as fondant bites of white tuna with raspberries and marigold, or squid with tomato and vine peach. Dishes are seasonal, but the curiosity is always there.”
Le Syndicat
Interior of Le Syndicat. Photograph courtesy of Le Syndicat
“Stop for a drink at Le Syndicat on rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis. It doesn’t look like much from the outside and you can easily walk past without realising it’s there, but once you step inside, you know you’re in the right place. The cocktails are killer, made from only French spirits and liqueurs, so you can spend the whole night working your way through the menu and having a great time. Kick off a date night with a Whisky Bellevoye, a twist on the classic old fashioned made with prune water, toasted barley syrup and bitters.”
La Felicità
“If you’re out with friends, don’t miss our buzzing food market La Felicità. There’s everything to satisfy your Italian cravings, from pasta fresca just as you’d have in a Roman trattoria to street food-style pizzas that you can enjoy on the open-air summer terrace with an IPA in hand. The cocktails are always fiery and strong, which helps to fuel the market’s amazing ambience. They’ll see you through to the later hours, when you can show off some dance moves.”
Le Baratin
“For a more intimate dinner, I would recommend Le Baratin, one of the pioneers of bistronomie. This is the place where chefs dine out when they are not doing it at home. Its cuisine is a form of grandmother’s cooking, but precisely and impeccably executed. They do the best offal in Paris, so you must try one of the specials, such as the fraise de veau, which beautifully pairs tender offal with strawberries. Another one not to miss is the cervelle de veau beurre citronné, delicious eggy brains balanced with acidic lemon butter. Be sure to try the wines, too, because they’re dead serious about their selection.”