THE JOURNAL

Earth Day can pass us by if we’re not careful – and by all accounts we need to be careful. Being considerate of our impact on the planet is more important than ever before. One way to make some changes is to support the brands that are working hard to create a brighter future for the industry. Whether they’re preserving traditional local craft or exploring more responsible and innovative materials, we are proud to stock them on MR PORTER. Here are nine to have on your radar in honour of Earth Day (although, in our opinion, every day should be Earth Day).
01.
Portuguese Flannel

Being obsessive about fabrics is easy when you have access to an archive dating back to the 1930s. Such is the case for Messrs Manuel and António Magalhães, the duo behind Portuguese Flannel, who, thanks to longstanding family history, feel such a connection to textiles that fond memories can be stirred up just by smelling them. They focus on putting pieces out into the world that look great, feel great and tell their own unique story of Portuguese heritage. The shirts are made by master craftsmen in northern Portugal, and in a way that blends traditional expertise with contemporary design. The exclusive fabrics are sourced from mills in and around Guimarães, and the inspiration behind each collection comes from the coast or mountains. Above all, it’s the sentimental tales of Manuel and António’s great grandfather, João, that continue to inspire them to do right by the planet and people.
02.
Desmond & Dempsey

Couple Ms Molly Goddard and Mr Joel Jeffery, co-founders of Desmond & Dempsey (or D&D, as it’s affectionately known), launched their brand with the aim of making “proper” pyjamas that are as good in bed as they are around the breakfast table on slow Sunday mornings. Not only are these comfy hand-painted print pyjamas charmingly fancy (you could easily wear one of the shirts to work, for example), but they’re also consciously made. Each pair is cut and sewn by hand in Portugal using organic cotton from a Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) supply chain, and three of the factories run off renewable energy. Plus, the factories and mills are OEKO-TEX certified, meaning the fabrics are tested regularly for nasty chemicals.
03.
Karu Research

Forget “Hello”, Karu Research had us at “Indian Future Vintage”. Based in New Delhi, the brand is named after the translation of “artisan” from Sanskrit and is passionately connecting makers from across India to create purposeful clothes with unforgettable backstories. Founded by Mr Kartik Kumra after he travelled to different artisanal clusters to better understand the processes and the value that artisans place on their craft, the label works to preserve both Indian handicraft and the art of collaboration. That’s why each piece is the result of a meaningful relationship – with handloom weavers from Andhra Pradesh and Bengal, with hand embroiderers from Delhi, or with natural dyers from Karnataka and Odisha.
04.
Ninety Percent

When Ninety Percent’s co-founders, Ms Para Hamilton and Mr Shafiq Hassan, first met, they bonded over a shared love of a bespectacled Mr John Lennon, with one lyric in particular striking a chord: “You may say that I’m a dreamer, but I am not the only one.” Imagining a better world, the London-based brand designs with a brighter fashion future in mind. Not only does it share 90 per cent of its profits between charitable causes (for which you can vote using the unique care-label codes) and those who make the collections happen, but it is open, honest and transparent about who makes its clothes, sharing stories of garment makers from its main supplier in Bangladesh, Echotex, an industry leader that operates with planet, people and product at its heart. You can expect to find considered materials in each drop too, including TENCEL Lyocell, organic cotton and SeaCell.
05.
Stòffa

Named after the Italian word for fabric, Stòffa’s refined vision of relaxed elegance centres around thoughtfully produced clothes that are beautiful and practical. Co-founders Messrs Agyesh Madan and Nicholas Ragosta create limited runs in styles that will form the backbone of your daily wardrobe, while still feeling special enough to treasure. Visually interesting design elements such as oversized pockets look cool and score extra points for functionality. Drawing upon material expertise to ensure a harmony of colour, tone and texture, the New York-based brand uses everything from upcycled brushed twills to natural silks, linens and cottons, which are mostly sourced from Italy. Each piece is meticulously tested to ensure that it’ll wear well and age handsomely.
06.
11.11/eleven

Spearheaded by Ms Mia Morikawa and Mr Shani Himanshu, 11.11/eleven champions Indian textile craft skills and heritage techniques (like handloom weaving, spinning and quilting), while helping to create ethical, long-term jobs. Slowly made in partnership with groups of artisans across India, this brand’s collections use indigenous cotton and natural dyes – including a mustard yellow from the skin of pomegranates – that are safe for you and the planet. What’s more, the label’s dyeing partners who transform the natural materials into “wearable colour” operate on a zero-waste philosophy. The nitrogen-rich water and organic matter used throughout the process are later used for fertilising local crops.
07.
SSAM

Standing for “small artisanal manufacturers”, SSAM specialises in Italian-made essentials that are understated and built to last. Founded by Mr Flavio Girolami, who also co-founded no-fuss sneaker brand Common Projects, it acts as a platform to showcase and utilise Italy’s home-grown talent. No stone is left unturned when it comes to this brand: the sweatshirts and hoodies are made on repurposed machines from the 1970s that have been carefully and lovingly restored by Girolami and his team. Even the limited-edition scented candles are housed in handmade ceramic jars (that take a whopping three months to complete) and have leather dust cap toppers crafted by a local dress shoe artisan.
08.
Veja

By now, telling you that Veja is a sustainable sneaker brand feels a bit like telling you that Prince liked purple, but you might not know the story of how it came to be. During a factory visit for a social audit for a fashion brand, Messrs Sebastien Kopp and François-Ghislain Morillion asked to see the living conditions of the workers that they’d spent the past three days with. Appalled at what they discovered, the pair knew that they had to strive for real change. Inspired by their work with Mr Tristan Lecomte, who had just started Alter Eco – a pioneering Fair Trade French brand – they returned to Paris and began to rebuild an everyday icon: the sneaker. Instead of allocating budget to advertising, costs went to production, raw materials and the makers instead. Today, Veja produces its sneakers in high-standard factories in Rio Grande do Sul, where International Labour Organization (ILO) rules are followed. Instead of relying on petroleum-based materials, it uses Brazilian and Peruvian organic cotton for the canvas and laces, leather certified Gold by the Leather Working Group and Amazonian rubber for the soles.
09.
Patagonia

How many campaigns have you seen from fashion brands that actively discourage people from shopping? Well, back in 2011, Patagonia ran a Black Friday ad in The New York Times with the headline “Don’t Buy This Jacket” as a way of addressing the issue of consumerism and acknowledging that it can be hypocritical to push for environmental change without encouraging customers to think twice before they buy. As a member of 1% for the Planet, the brand has pledged one per cent of sales to the preservation and restoration of the natural environment, and creates durable outerwear using recycled, organic and innovative fibres.