Fine, Finer, Finest

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Fine, Finer, Finest

Words by Mr Adam Welch

22 January 2015

In the first of a new series, MR PORTER explains how to take your essentials from super to superlative.

Whatever the current state of your wardrobe, our guess is it will be largely composed of items that you wear a lot and think about very little. When was the last time you paused to muse on the virtues of your favourite striped T-shirt, or weekend sweats, for example – round about spring two-thousand-and-never, does that sound about right? This is a shame because investing some time (and money) into your essentials (ie, trusty pieces that go with anything and that you wear every day) is a good way to raise your style game without (a) undergoing a risky “Mr Fashion” reinvention each season; and (b) funnelling all your cash into things you will only wear at parties. No, we’re not suggesting you need to re-order all your underwear in Sea Island cotton (though MR PORTER would be the last to complain if you did), but rather that upgrading key items is a straightforward way to show your look some love.

The following products represent the cream of the crop, insofar as essentials are concerned, and are ranked not just in terms of cost, but uniqueness. On the “fine” side we have a series of perfect iterations of menswear standards. The “finest”, meanwhile, incorporate a hint of something extra, whether it’s a hand finish, specialist fabric or truly incomparable design flourish. Think of it as “sartorial staircasing”, and let 22 January 2015 be known forever more as the day MR PORTER coined the phrase.

The Blue Jean

How’s this for preaching to the choir: jeans are important. You don’t just wear them, you develop a relationship with each pair. When you start off with an unwashed variety in raw denim, this becomes particularly apparent – the fabric gradually wearing and fading to reflect the way you move, stand and sit. Which is why it’s crucial to choose wisely from the outset. For optimum versatility, go for Nudie’s Thin Finn Dry Denim Jeans, which come in a flattering slim cut that will look as good with sneakers or work boots.

Those looking for a more dramatic ageing effect should pay attention to the latest offering from US-made brand Raleigh Denim, which features pleasing flecks of white cotton yarn in the fabric that will become more pronounced as it ages. However, when it comes to the ultimate fade, look no further than Blue Blue Japan, an expert in the art of traditional Japanese indigo dyeing. BBJ’s Stretch Cotton-Twill Jeans are overdyed (ie, dipped excessively in indigo dye), meaning that they offer not only an unparalleled depth of colour, but will fade beautifully (and noticeably) as you wear them.

The Plaid Shirt

Whether you’re currently channelling 1960s Mr Bob Dylan, 1990s Mr Kurt Cobain, or have finally accepted that the decade we’re currently enduring is the 2010s and simply want to introduce a bit of geometry to your outfit, a plaid shirt is what you need. From the selection currently on MR PORTER, J.Crew’s is the most classic and understated, coming in sturdy cotton flannel for a traditional, all-American feel.

From the other side of the Atlantic, Burberry Brit proposes a more daring colour palette by blowing up the house’s famous check pattern and reworking it in burgundy and cobalt blue – two shades that sync very nicely with spring 2015’s propensity for jewel-like tones. Then, a short helicopter ride away (for the right customer) is a remarkable example from Italy’s Bottega Veneta – each iteration of which is completely unique, thanks to the expressionist splash of bleach that’s applied by hand to its front closure. In short: shell out, and never be caught wearing the same thing as someone else again.

The Grey Sweatshirt

The sweatshirt is a functional, simple garment, in which comfort is a chief attraction. Which is why it’s not a bad idea to pay close attention to the quality of fabric when choosing one. After all, though you might publicly announce a grey marl number as the latest addition to your unfussy off-duty Saturday look, you’re also probably planning to slum around in it every Sunday, Alka-Seltzer fizzing cheerfully through your bloodstream. Given this, your first port of call is Sunspel, a British brand that has been perfecting the hand-feel of its extra-soft cottons since 1860. Its classic grey sweatshirt is a perfect execution of the archetype, which, for the minimalists out there, offers little in the way of extraneous detail.

If you’re looking for a more dressy sweat, taking cues from the ongoing rise of sportswear on the seasonal runways, Maison Martin Margiela adds a typically off-kilter touch to the basic template with elbow patches in tactile suede. Meanwhile, Lanvin has another agenda: creating the grey sweatshirt of the future. Executed in a resilient yet elastic cotton jersey, this variation cuts a sleek, round-shouldered silhouette, finishing neatly at the arms and waist with its slim stitched cuffs. Your sweatshirt equivalent of the latest Lamborghini concept car.

The Striped Tee

Here’s a party trick to play with a striped T-shirt. Tuck it into your jeans and pull them up high – hey, presto, you’re Mr Marlon Brando. Pull it out and sling on a biker jacket. Ta-da, you’re Mr Johnny Ramone. Rinse and repeat. Brando! Ramone! Brando! Ramone! OK, if you want to come to the next party, maybe don’t do that. Point is, this is a classic style that has proven itself to be perennially flattering, with lots of illustrious and very cool past wearers (Messrs Andy Warhol and Pablo Picasso were partial to stripes, too). The best-behaved variety comes from A.P.C. In muted grey and white, it’s understated, comforting and works as well for rolling around on the beach as it does under an unstructured, slouchy blazer.

Moving on up, we have a more collegiate take on stripes, rendered in a wriggly, seemingly hand-done scrawl from Mr Scott Sternberg at Band of Outsiders. Look closely and spot the subtle brand monogram (aptly, it reads “BOO”!). Get this as soon as you befriend someone with a yacht – it works best on deck. Things get resortier and resortier with Gucci’s sleek, slightly boat-necked striped tee. Its cool linen-jersey fabric hangs breezily from the shoulders and should be paired with a knotted jumper as you sip gold-leaf-topped cocktails on the private island you just bought to complete the look.

The Shirt Jacket

If you sat eight people round a table and asked them to describe exactly what this next piece is, you might get a few more answers than you were hoping for, given that, visually speaking, it sits uneasily in that Bermuda-Triangle-esque space between overshirt, Harrington and field jacket. But, we assure you, this will really become of little consequence once the shirt-jacket comes into your orbit, given its versatility, functionality and eminent layer-a-bility.

If the look of the thing – whatever you end up calling it – is its primary appeal, we recommend you invest in the minimally detailed blue shirt-jacket currently proposed by London’s Folk. In crisp cotton canvas, it will keep its shape without weighing you down. If you’re looking for a more authentic, brave-the-elements style piece, look no further than Filson, the archetypal American workwear brand that was born during the gold rush of the 1890s. Its Cape Cruiser Jacket comes cut in Filson’s more narrow and shirt-like “Seattle” fit (for wearing under a larger jacket) but, thanks to its hardy virgin wool fabric, is designed to counter changeable environments up to and including the Pacific Northwest.

Loro Piana’s take on the look, meanwhile, achieves something of a miracle, combining a sleek aesthetic, incredible lightness, patented waterproofing technology and the kind of warmth you can only get with a cashmere lining.