THE JOURNAL

We show you how to give your evening wear some individuality this party season.
It’s tempting to think that donning a tuxedo will immediately transform your mortal form into something akin to a movie star. Bow tie fastened? That invite to the Oscars is in the post, right? Maybe not. An ill-fitting jacket here, or cumbersome cummerbund there, and things can appear a lot less sophisticated.
We have all been that callow youth at a high school ball, lost in a sea of more callow youths wearing strikingly similar cheap suits. Things have moved on. You are a mature man of style who makes his own individual sartorial decisions. And although you may not have a red carpet to grace every month, it’s likely you have more than one reason a year to wear a tux. So, take the time to invest in an elegant ensemble you can make your own – for years, perhaps decades, to come.
In the spirit of the party season, our styling team has put together five tux looks to suit any occasion. Whether you see yourself as classic, contemporary or downright daring, these pieces, in our opinion, represent the best-quality evening wear this winter.
The Traditionalist

If you’re attending a formal ball, the rules associated with wearing a tuxedo, which date back to 1888, ought to be adhered to as faithfully as possible. Classic peak lapels – traditional and sophisticated – are your friend. As an added bonus, they draw eyes to your shoulders, making you look more athletic. The lapels should match your bow tie, so go for something in the same material as the Italian-crafted silk adorning this Brunello Cucinelli jacket. Unsure about the cummerbund? They can divide opinion, sure, but the idea that they are outdated will be a foreign one to any true gentleman. And rest assured, you’re in safe hands with Mr Tom Ford, who knows a thing or two about contemporary class. Which brings us nicely on to the shoes. Our very own brand, Kingsman, has utilised the impeccable British shoemaking history of George Cleverley to create the perfect patent Oxfords. Just add fine black socks.
The Minimalist

When you’re dressing for an evening where the dress code requires formality – a cocktail party, perhaps, or major gallery opening – we’re keen to relax the rules and inject a little bit of edge into our evening wear. So, if you’re more of a classic man, shield your eyes; we are dispensing with the bow tie. No, not even a tie, just a slim-fit grandad-collar shirt from Gucci. Many style-conscious men look to a shawl collar on their tuxedo. The operative word here is “many”. It can be overdone. And, although Mr James Dean could pull it off, not everyone can. We like Givenchy’s modern interpretation of the notch lapel for a clever tweak on tradition. Clearly, you’re not looking for regal formality here, so forget the patent slippers and try on some Derbies. This pair, also by Givenchy, have an elasticated design that errs on the side of practical, rather than pretentious.
THE EXTRAVAGANT MAN

It’s the event of the year – perhaps hosted by that annoyingly popular acquaintance who always throws legendary parties. The invitation says something such as “evening elegance with a twist”. You want to dress to impress. The traditional tux rulebook may have been left at home, but no one likes a man who over-indulges (and that includes at the free bar). So, keep a balance. Subtly Bohemian, this tux jacket from Etro, which incorporates artistic brushstrokes on its opulent velvet, is tamed by the more understated bow tie from Lanvin. And by wearing a sober black shirt, you can keep the flair going elsewhere. Some cutting-edge elegance from Alexander McQueen suits this after-dark outfit – and fusing the formality of a slipper with a fun, floral design works well. Any dapper man knows that one should look as debonair arriving at the party as one does inside it. So don’t let any rain dampen your arrival, and take an umbrella. With its skull handle, this particular one will double up as an ice-breaker.
The Contemporary Classic

If you wish to keep things relaxed and up to date yet, because of personal taste and the occasion’s dress code, feel you must cling on to a few evening wear traditions, try the above. We imagine a more everyday shoe will be appropriate here (perhaps you’re at an end-of-year work ball, or a friend’s birthday), so try these Derbies by Raf Simons. Simple and dark, the addition of the red stitching will give a sartorial lift to your stride. Jet black, with softly structured shoulders and slight, peak lapels, there’s something subtly traditional about the tux from Ami. Its slim fit, however, will keep things looking sharp. Pair the Italian-made bib-front shirt with a little irreverence – a red velvet bow tie from Lanvin will attract compliments, while avoiding any unwanted attention.
The Modern Dandy

If Sir Mick Jagger were to invest in some evening wear, he might call up Mr Haider Ackermann, the Colombian designer who captured the fashion cognoscenti’s eye with his artisanal debut SS14 collection. You don’t necessarily have to be a rock star to pull off his jacket and trouser combination, but confidence is certainly required. What else is the party season for? Any tuxedo jacket made from velvet will lend your look a pleasingly plush, vintage feel, but it must fit perfectly, or you run the risk of looking like a professor. The chevron-emblazoned trousers will ensure you stand out from the crowd, and they even offer the suggestion of a cummerbund on the waistband. Wear with a rollneck and finish things off with some loafers by Brioni. This is not the time for British-made whole cuts.