THE JOURNAL
For many of us, a retro sneaker is our go-to shoe. But not everyone is convinced. Take the stylist Ms Lisa Talbot, who recently deemed one such perennially popular reissue to be “uncool”. Specifically, she blamed parents on the school run for their decline – although certain models appearing on the feet of certain politicians probably didn’t help. But before you stick your stalwart sports shoe on the pile of “things to wear if you want to ruin your social capital”, we’d suggest taking such denouncements with a grain of salt. These classic sneakers have already withstood decades of style changes, after all. And remember why you wear them in the first place: they go with anything.
Amid the constant flurry of fashion trends, it’s hard to keep up. With everyone desperately searching for the next big thing, what happens to the pieces they replace? Here’s a better question: what if we’re going about this all wrong? Maybe we need to make these sweeping changes in style work for us, not the other way around. Here’s how to rethink our relationship with trend cycles – and build a better wardrobe.
Where to start
The straightforward answer is to only buy clothes that you’ll actually wear. This is, of course, easier said than done. Wardrobe staples – what we like to call “The Essentials” – will always work as the spine of your rotation. And, better still, look for pieces from MR PORTER’s Consciously Crafted collections, which put the planet and people first. Think timeless pieces that are resistant to passing trends. Well, as much as anything can be.
In truth, sometimes our entire wardrobe can face a paradigm shift, when even our basics aren’t entirely safe. And that doesn’t just have to be down to the whims of fashion – our changing age and bodies can impact what we wear, too. Not to mention that, in every wardrobe, there should always be room for a bit of frivolous fun. All work and no play and all that.But what happens when something doesn’t fit, or isn’t fun anymore? When items of clothing fall out of favour, often they get thrown into the depths at the back of the wardrobe. The space perhaps known in your household as “the pit”.
The pit should contain just a few bits holding sentimental value despite not being entirely right for you now. Yet, for too many people, that’s simply not the case. Data from WRAP, a charity that helps businesses, individuals, and communities create a circular economy, revealed that the average UK adult has 118 items of clothing in their wardrobes and only wears on three-quarters of it. Around 26 per cent remains unworn and neglected, sometimes with the tags still on.
There are many reasons for the pit’s existence. Retail therapy being one, poor impulse control is another and, most notably, a psychological principle called social proof.
Why do we care about what’s cool?
Social proof is why you jump on the latest trends, only to immediately discard them once they’ve been labelled uncool. It’s a consensus, a general agreement among a group where the majority always wins. Even if you don’t initially like a style, you’re likely to find aspects of it appealing if lots of people deem it fashionable. Their approval provides the proof that the outfit looks good, and our trust in this “majority rules” principle helps to shape our perceptions. As humans, our desire to connect with and follow one another evolved to form the bedrock of our community-based civilisation.
Social proof is in our DNA. So, of course, seeing a particular pair of shoes on a renowned celebrity and being hailed as “this season’s must-have” will cause you to covet it. If everyone likes it, it must be great, right? While relying on the opinion of others to inform our own is a shortcut used to speed up mental processing during decision making, the conclusions we draw due to social proof are not always the right fit for us.
Guaranteed, if you dig deep and, before every purchase, ask yourself, “Outside of any external influences, do I really like this piece?” your pit would be far more manageable.
Why do things become uncool?
It’s difficult to pinpoint precisely who the arbiters of coolness are. Some believe in the trickle-down system whereby fashion designers, buyers and the like dictate the trends by deciding what to put down the runway each season. Others say things have flipped to trickle up, with quirky kids, TikTokers and fashion influencers having the final say.
What we do know for sure is that every style eventually hits a saturation point of uncoolness because humans are, by and large, walking contradictions. We are constantly balancing our need to belong with an ingrained, fundamental desire to be unique. It’s OK to see people far removed from you wearing trending pieces, but when Tom in accounts wears them, too, our psyche simply can’t handle it.
Where do we go from here?
It’s easy to ridicule people who stop wearing “uncool” pieces for being sheep. However, studies show that following the fashion rules makes you appear more sociable and provides a level of cachet. But in the name of sustainability, frugality and all things holy, when the things you own become uncool, if you truly love them, don’t give up without a fight. Instead, find new ways to style them by pairing them with other trendy pieces.
Rather than reaching for your typical straight-leg trousers, pair your old-school sneakers with cargo pants or even jorts. Get them customised and add your personal touch to it. Such displays of creativity will maintain your position as part of the cultural zeitgeist and give you the serotonin boost that comes with being creative.
Managing your existing wardrobe is just one piece of the puzzle. Changing the way you shop in the first place is where the real work comes in.
Three tips to stop you from getting lost in the cool cycle
01. Embraces timelessness
What does timeless even mean? That’s subjective. But try this: picture your future self in five years. When we engage in this activity, we often think about what our careers, finances and relationships look like, but never what we as people look like. Now consider the item you’re planning to buy and ask yourself, “Would the person I hope to be in the future wear something like this?” If the answer is yes, you’ve just purchased a timeless piece. Research also reveals that future thinking encourages you to spend more thoughtfully and less impulsively.
02. Choose comfort over coolness
Studies show that uncomfortable clothing increases your cognitive load, preventing you from thinking deeply and flexibly. When getting dressed, comfort should always be king.
03. Pick colours that inspire you
With 78 per cent of people admitting that their wardrobes consist largely of dull, dark and neutral colours, I’m here to tell you that having more of the same is not enough to save you from cool cycles. Instead, allow yourself to gravitate towards colours that inspire you, shift your mood and conjure fond memories.
Remember, long-wavelength colours like red, orange, and yellow rev you up. Meanwhile, short-wavelength colours like blue, turquoise and purple calm you down. Use that knowledge to your advantage.
Yesterday, when I walked into the living room in flared trousers, my stepdad hit me with, “Bell bottoms are back, are they?” It reminded me of my teens, when wearing that amount of fabric around your ankles was a major faux pas. And it might be once again sometime soon. But now you know what to do when the time comes.