If your experience of franchised Mexican food has left you in taco hell, you need to visit Tacombi, a New York taqueria that knows its tamales from its tostadas. Owner Mr Dario Wolos started serving tacos out of a Volkswagen Kombi (hence the name) on the beaches of the Yucatan peninsula in 2006, and graduated to a bricks-and-mortar operation a few years ago, while keeping the original laid-back surf-shack spirit intact; the Nolita branch features tropical plants and a Kombi taco stand, while the tacos themselves, from the mole poblano chicken with mashed sweet potatoes to the conchinita pibil (achiote-marinated pork shoulder swaddled in banana leaves), are served on no-nonsense tin plates. “The essence of Tacombi is 1960s-style Mexican hospitality,” says Mr Wolos. “We wanted to go beyond the standard clichés associated with Mexican food and culture and capture the feeling of all the different places where these amazing recipes come from. There’s a lot to discover in Mexico; it’s an awesome place, and we’re focused on showcasing the best of what we find as we continue our journey.” A large part of this is, of course, the tacos – a food that Mr Wolos describes thusly: “Tacos are for everyone – they represent a meeting point for all kinds of people in Mexico. Tortillas are our bread.”
The MR PORTER team are lucky enough to get a salsa-smacking, poblano-popping taste of this feeling as Tacombi is bringing its wares to our New York Block Party today. For those who want to create an authentic taco experience in their own shaq-ueria, scroll down for the restaurant’s hotter-than-jalapeno (not literally) seared fish taco recipe.