THE JOURNAL

Illustration by Ms Anje Jager
When to splash the cash, how to build a new wardrobe from scratch and what to wear instead of black.
This week, thanks to the many style questions we received via Instagram, Twitter and Facebook, MR PORTER is focusing on the idea of wardrobe building, whether it’s picking out a few key investment pieces (how exactly do you do that?), getting the basics right (what are they?) or stepping outside your style comfort zone with a bit of colour. Scroll down, and consider yourself fully up to date in the fine art of curating your closet.

When is it worth spending big bucks?
From odavies96 via Instagram

There are three key things to think about when weighing up an investment purchase. First, consider the visual impact of the item. The fewer people who will see it, the less sense it makes to splurge and vice versa. By that rationale, drop the big bucks on a coat or a bag or pair of glasses (if you wear them) and save on the underwear and T-shirts. Second, how often do you expect to wear/use the item? This will give you the cost-per-wear ratio: divide the price by the anticipated frequency. It’s more sensible to push the boat out on a nice wallet that you will use every day than a highly patterned jacket that you won’t be able to wear too often. Third, how long do you think you will own the item? Invest in timeless pieces that will last for years and never date, such as leather shoes or a watch, rather than fashion-forward items that could go out of style by next season.
Try these

**Which essential items should I have in my wardrobe?
From jaredbun and thomascooreman via Instagram**

We have a section of the website dedicated to The Essentials, perennially stylish items that we always try to keep in stock. The following list will give you a pretty solid foundation on which to build and add in more interesting pieces. How many of these basics can you tick off?
Footwear White leather tennis shoes (with no-show socks); black leather Oxford shoes, brown leather brogues; chocolate-brown suede Chelsea boots; espadrilles/leather sandals.
**Trousers/shorts **Slim-fit indigo selvedge jeans; chinos in olive green, beige and navy; cords in charcoal grey and navy; tailored shorts in navy, grey and beige; brightly coloured swim shorts.
**Shirts/T-shirts **Plain white and grey round-neck T-shirts; a Breton striped T-shirt; button-down shirts in white cotton and light blue chambray; polo shirts in navy, white and grey.
**Sweaters **Grey marl jersey sweatshirt; cashmere or merino sweaters in camel, grey and navy.
**Tailoring **Navy blazer; charcoal-grey or navy suit; white dress shirt; knitted ties in grey, navy and burgundy.
**Outerwear **Camel overcoat; navy peacoat; blue denim jacket; military-green or navy bomber jacket.
Gym kit Nike Flyknit running shoes; gym shorts; gym T-shirt; jersey hoodie.
**Accessories **Tan leather belt; Wayfarer sunglasses; Swiss watch with a stainless steel strap; leather holdall; black or chocolate-brown leather wallet or card holder.

**How do I break out of my black rut?
From chakra_l.a._ via Instagram**

Substitute black for navy blue. It combines more easily with other colours, such as olive green, camel, burgundy, red and other shades of blue. People who wear black all the time tend to stick with grey and white, which is monochromatic and limiting. When wearing black, use it as a blank canvas for highlighting one piece of “pop” colour. For example, I used to work with a stylist who only ever wore black except on his feet. He always sported colourful statement sneakers. Or you could try adding in colour as a partially seen layer, such as wearing a red shirt underneath a black top but allowing the hem to hang down in order to create a visual break. You can also liven up an all-black outfit by incorporating black or grey pattern, for example with a polka-dot shirt.