THE JOURNAL
Seven spice pork belly rub “taco canto” by Cariñito at Oranj, London. Photograph by Ms Ania Smoliakovaa, courtesy of Oranj
Need another reason to book a summer escape? With the popularity of restaurant residencies showing no sign of slowing, more and more chefs are swapping their kitchens for appearances at high-profile pop-ups in far-flung locations – and serving up unforgettable dining experiences in the process.
For ambitious chefs, it’s a chance to expand their horizons, collaborate with contemporaries and share their talents with a new audience. The rise of the residency format has added dynamism to the post-pandemic dining scene, while providing a platform for a new generation of culinary stars. From A-listers on overseas manoeuvres to pop-ups in low-lit wine bars to the Malaysian rainforest, here are 10 of the best residencies worth bagging a table for this summer.
01.
Mr Jackson Boxer at Cowley Manor Experimental, Cotswolds
Left: Mr Jackson Boxer at Cowley Manor Experimental, Cotswolds. Photograph courtesy of The Experimental Group. Right: Jackson Boxer’s Dorset Whelk, Sake & Lime Leaf. Photograph by Ms Nazrin Ibadova, courtesy of The Experimental Group
One of London’s most in-demand chefs swaps the city for the English countryside this summer for the reopening of Cowley Manor Experimental – a sophisticated hotel, spa and restaurant in a Grade-II listed, 17th-century country pile. With an impressive roster of London ventures already to his name (Brunswick House, Orasay, Below Stone Nest), Mr Jackson Boxer arrives as chef-consultant for the launch this summer, with menus expected to put a French spin on local produce.
02.
Ms Nieves Barragán Mohacho at Nobu Hotel Ibiza Bay
The Beach Deck at Nobu Hotel Ibiza Bay. Photograph courtesy of Nobu Hotels
With her Michelin-starred London restaurant Sabor among the capital’s top spots for Spanish food, Bilbao-born Ms Nieves Barragán Mohacho returns to home soil this summer with a residency at one of Ibiza’s hippest hangouts. She’s heading up the kitchen at Nobu Ibiza’s new Gusto bar and restaurant, which pops up poolside until October. Expect daily seafood specials among her menu of elevated small plates that showcase Ibiza’s sun kissed produce, all served within sight of Cala Talamanca’s turquoise waters.
03.
Guest chef series at The Palmerston, Edinburgh
Left: Mr Chris Leach. Photograph courtesy of Manteca. Right: restaurant interior at The Palmerston, Edinburgh. Photograph by Mr James Porteous, courtesy of The Palmerston
Housed in a former bank in the heart of Edinburgh’s West End, The Palmerston’s focus on provenance, sustainability and whole-animal cooking has made it a hit since its 2021 launch. This summer looks likely to raise the bar even further with a guest series that sees chef-patron Mr Lloyd Morse team up with some of the UK’s top talents for one-off meals, with former colleague and Spring founder Ms Skye Gyngell, Manteca’s Mr Chris Leach and Mr Alex Jackson from Noble Rot Soho all heading north of the border in the next few months.
04.
Turntable series at Lord Stanley, San Francisco
Left: Mr Nick Balla’s mushrooms and kamaboko in broth at Turntable at Lord Stanley, San Francisco. Photograph courtesy of Lord Stanley. Right: The Dining room at Lord Stanley, San Francisco. Photograph courtesy of Lord Stanley
The Michelin-starred modern European in San Francisco’s Russian Hill took a bold new direction in 2021 after husband-and-wife owners Mr Rupert and Ms Carrie Blease relaunched the venue as a platform for a rotating cast of international chef residencies. The new concept has proved a success, with each new arrival offering both tasting menus and casual options, with Mr Javier Rodriguez’s modern take on northern Argentine cooking and the Korean-born former Jungsik and Atomix chef Mr Ki Kim next in line to impress diners this summer.
05.
Guest chef series at Peligoni Club, Zakynthos
Happy Pear feast at The Peligoni Club, Zakynthos. Photograph courtesy of The Peligoni Club
This summer sees a cosmopolitan collection of culinary talent jet into the secluded north coast of Zakynthos for the latest guest chef series at the boho-chic Peligoni Club. With the crystalline waters of the Ionian Sea serving as backdrop, each kitchen takeover will champion a different international cuisine, with vibrant Middle Eastern flavours coming courtesy of Bubala’s executive chef Ms Helen Graham in June, Ms Yoko Nakada following up with seasonal Japanese cuisine and Ms Abby Lee, whose restaurant Mambow opened in Peckham last year, showcasing her take on Malaysian cooking in September.
06.
L’Enclume at Bathers’ Pavilion, Sydney
Left: Mr Simon Rogan. Photograph by Ms Nina K Claridge, courtesy of L’Enclume. Right: view of The Bathers’ Pavilion, Sydney. Photograph by Ms Nikki To, courtesy of Bathers’ Pavilion
One of the UK’s most decorated chefs heads down under for a five-week residency on Sydney’s North Shore this July. Mr Simon Rogan will transport the ingredient-led ethos and some of the star dishes of Lake District restaurant L’Enclume – which picked up its third Michelin star last year – to the Art Deco Bathers’ Pavilion on Balmoral Beach, where guests can expect an eight-course menu informed by local and native produce.
07.
Cariñito Tacos at Oranj, London
Interior of Oranj, London. Photograph courtesy of Oranj
Part of London’s new wave of natural wine bars, this lofty, low-lit warehouse space in Shoreditch champions low intervention, biodynamic and organic producers from around the world, as well as food served up by an equally far-reaching calendar of chef residencies. Book in before the end of July for the arrival of the duo behind Mexico City’s Cariñito Tacos, whose contemporary Chilango street food – defined by its herbal, sweet and spicy elements – are sure to work well with some of the bolder wines on offer. Former St John chef Mr Felix Reade joins the party later this summer.
08.
The Chef Series at The Datai Langkawi, Malaysia
Left: dining at The Datai Langkawi, Malaysia. Photograph courtesy of Datai Hotels. Right: Mr Tom Aikens’ Wagyu sirloin with caramelised onion, beef shin and turnip at The Datai Langkawi, Malaysia. Photograph courtesy of Datai Hotels
Surrounded by lush tropical rainforest, luxury Malaysian resort The Datai Langkawi already makes a statement setting for a memorable meal. Yet, this year, it celebrates its 30th anniversary with a special roster of residencies helmed by international culinary legends. Following in the footsteps of luminaries including Mr Michel Roux and Mr Nils Henkel, this summer’s events include Singapore’s Mr Mano Thevar in June and Dutch chef Mr Lars van Galen in August. The guest chefs will serve intimate dinners, soundtracked by nature, based upon sustainable organic produce from the resort’s permaculture garden.
09.
Wild Feasts at Oxmoor Farm, Chiltern Hills
Left: Ms Sophie Gordon’s fennel kohlrabi salad. Photograph by Ms Issy Crocker, courtesy of Oxmoor Farm. Right: Ms Olivia Cavalli. Photograph by Ms Sophie Davidson, courtesy of Oxmoor Farm
Just a short hop from London, the Chiltern Hills set the bucolic backdrop for this rural dinner party series, returning to Oxmoor Farm for a second season this summer. Shining a light on high-quality seasonal produce, each of these alfresco feasts is overseen by a different culinary talent, with chef and food stylist Ms Olivia Cavalli channelling her Italian roots over a two-day residency in July and Ms Sophie Gordon, author of The Whole Vegetable, sharing her sustainable, zero-waste ethos with diners under the stars in August.
10.
Summer Sessions at Half Cut Market, London
Hot 4 U’s ox cheek Bourguignon, red miso, puffed grains & violet mustard. Photograph by Ms Caitlin Isola, courtesy of Half Cut Market
Another London wine bar serving up a fresh spin on food pairings this summer is Kentish Town’s Half Cut Market, whose owners are throwing open the doors to chefs from some of the city’s most hyped restaurants, with cofounder Mr Danny Eilenberg curating a guest chef series. Over the next few months, expect pop-ups and takeovers including Mediterranean-inspired small plates from Messrs Yagmur Foster and Panos Mattheou of Manteca, best-in-class butchery from Hill & Szrok and a menu by Mr Jakob Grant from one of this year’s hottest tables, Bouchon Racine – all partnered by the bar’s impressive, 80-strong list of low-intervention wines.