THE JOURNAL

Illustration by Mr Jean Michel
One look out of the window confirms it: knitwear season is here. We’ve had false starts and surprise heatwaves. We’ve done the dreaded scan for moth holes, assessing the victims that didn’t make it through the year (RIP to pretty much all cashmere). And we’ve tried our best to prepare for the cold and grey months ahead as the temperature finally drops.
But there’s something about this season’s knits. Let’s call it a return to the classics. That means heritage styles – Argyle sweaters, cable knits and Fair Isle patterns – as well as a colour palette of rich browns and muted camels, and materials that range from fuzzy mohair and chunky alpaca to soft cashmere and textured Shetland wool. If anything, the various shapes, colours and textures bring to mind a bygone era of visits to our grandparents, or trips to the golf club. Yes, “boring” knitwear is back, but it’s also better than ever and no longer just an extra layer to keep you warm.
“The era of dressing solely for comfort is over. The classics, albeit updated, are back”
Some of the classic old-school styles have been reinvigorated in new ways. Bottega Veneta, for example, has taken the safe beige-and-blue Argyle pattern and printed it onto a high-quality lamb leather, complete with realistic recreations of a ribbed V-neck collar and trims. Admittedly that probably means it doesn’t count as knitwear at all – the editor’s notes describe the “illusion of a sweater” – but what better way to put your own twist on knitwear than by printing, not knitting, it?
It’s not just Bottega Veneta and its surprising leather “knitwear”. CELINE HOMME has also put its own spin on the Argyle with a black-and-white fuzzy cotton blend, while Our Legacy, KENZO and KAPITAL have all done unexpected things to the Fair Isle knit with bright colours, cleverly incorporated logos and even a skeleton print.
Then there are the brands who’ve become known for their statement-making cardigans. See The Elder Statesman, who has developed a cult following for its California-inspired cashmere, while Marni’s mohair and Needles’ patterned cardigans have become instantly recognisable staples. Boring doesn’t need to be boring anymore.
Sweaters including the Argyle and the Fair Isle – and the winter staple Shetland – are heritage pieces for a reason. These styles have been around forever, based on ancient tartans and crafted on the most remote inhabited island in the UK. In the generations since, they have gone on a journey, eventually moving from British high society to Ivy League students. These classic knitwear pieces became key components of prep style and its subsequent resurgences.
Nowadays, they’re undergoing another transformation. The news that people are swapping their sweatpants for something altogether smarter has been well documented, so maybe it’s no surprise that people are turning to good old fashioned knitwear styles as they start retying their ties, replacing their sneakers with smart shoes and reintroducing suits to their wardrobe. The era of dressing solely for comfort is over and the classics, albeit in their new and updated forms, are back.
But while Argyles can now be made out of leather, Fair Isles can come in bright and bold cashmere, and brands are known for their colourful mohair cardigans, it doesn’t mean that the only knitwear worth taking note of comes in lurid technicolour or unexpected fabrics. This is, after all, the era of stealth wealth and quiet luxury and labels are creating the kind of high-quality knitwear frequently worn by the Roy family – right down to Logan’s beloved shawl-collar cardigans.
Crafted from fine materials in muted colours, these brands are producing classic knitwear done right, with the best fabrics and the finest details. Loro Piana’s cable knits are made from a wool and cashmere blend, while ZEGNA’s subtle knitwear includes camel-coloured Jacquard sweaters produced in a luxurious cashmere. Then there are brands such as Drake’s and Stòffa, making sensible cardigans in sensible shades of brown, all of which make for perfect layering pieces without adding too much bulk underneath your winter coat.
It isn’t just fictional billionaires and their scheming children who love quiet and classic knits like this. Earlier this year, the most recent show to reach menswear icon status, The Bear, sparked its own viral knitwear moment. Despite the show airing at the height of summer, Carmy’s off-duty outfit in an early episode caused a dramatic spike in Google searches for “The Bear sweater”. The jumper in question was a quiet, subtle piece – it was actually a sensible grey cable knit from J.Crew – described by the show’s costume designer as “so classic… with Carmy, we go where the classics are, whatever is well made, whatever has a great cut.”
And so – from The Bear to Succession, from Bottega Veneta to J.Crew – knitwear is well and truly back, with new designs alongside old favourites, surprising materials next to luxurious fibres. In one way, this new generation of knitwear all comes from the same starting point, from the same heritage and even the same associations with golf clubs and grandparents. The difference nowadays is that designers and brands are showing how even the most sturdy and historic styles can be taken forward in more interesting ways.
The striking thing about this bold new era of knitwear is how diverse it is. Sweaters and cardigans are more than just extra insulation, they’re bright and bold sartorial statements, they’re soft, classic and luxurious, and they’re everything in between. Investing in knitwear – even if it is technically made out of leather – is more than just investing in keeping warm, it can be the most interesting part of your winter wardrobe.