THE JOURNAL

The problems of designer Mr Charaf Tajer don’t amount to a hill of beans in this crazy world. Not that he has many. Sure, people might often mistake him for someone else (his Instagram bio reads “I’m not DJ Khaled”), but no one is going to do the same with his clothing.
Once involved with Parisian designer-boutique-turned-designer-in-its-own-right Pigalle, Mr Tajer has since carved a name for himself under the banner Casablanca. In an exceedingly short space of time (Casablanca’s AW19 collection was its first), the brand has gained the patronage of everyone from Mr Travis Scott to Ms Gigi Hadid and Mr Dev Hynes, while notable fan Skepta was at the brand’s debut show in Paris. Held at the Hôtel Mona Bismarck across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower, this riot of colourful silk shirts, terry cloth sweats and vivid prints has become one of those events that everyone claims to have been at, like an early Sex Pistols gig.
Mr Tajer has even collaborated with Mr Virgil Abloh, although – full disclosure – he also once ran the nightclub where the Louis Vuitton and Off-White supremo played his first ever DJ set. We know: of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world, Mr Abloh walks into his.
The beginning of a beautiful friendship, no doubt, and one that is perhaps key to understanding this collection. Because, rather than a range of classic trench coats inspired by those worn by Mr Humphrey Bogart, Casablanca the brand is more in tune with the frontline of streetwear.
Indeed, the name isn’t borrowed from the oft-quoted – and misquoted – film, but from the city itself, where, the story goes, Mr Tajer’s parents fell in love. Which is to say that with his output, the designer touches on this French-Moroccan heritage, and you will also find nods to North African architecture on select items. But as a whole, this collection is very much concerned with the here and now.
Take the items that land on MR PORTER this week, which range from a white loopback sweatshirt with a fairly minimal “Casablanca Tennis Club” logo to a pair of jeans and a denim jacket with a “multicolour speedboat sunset print” plastered across them. This is not a rehash of some well-worn trope, played again for old times’ sake, but something thoroughly new.
In the era of social media, legends build quickly, and Casablanca has already attained a following, not to mention a sense of maturity, that defies its tender age. But if you were there from the very start, remember: we’ll always have Paris.