THE JOURNAL

Photograph courtesy of Mr Jonathan Daniel Pryce
Our resident style expert answers your most pressing sartorial questions.
Some style topics are so niche that we cannot cover them in The Journal and here on The Daily. And that is exactly what this style advice column is for. The cure for what ails you. You share your personal problems, however strange (not too weird, mind), and we endeavour to provide a tailored solution. This week does not disappoint. One person has a mysterious aversion to knitwear, another has an issue with denim and someone else wants to dress for Californian weather (what a life!). See our answers, below. And if you want us to address something for you, email asky@mrporter.com, or contact us via our social media channels.

**My husband can’t find jeans with a relaxed fit that are still slimline. He has a 32in waist but has thicker legs, which turn all slim-fit jeans into a tighter fit. What style should we look at for a relaxed fit that isn’t too baggy?
From @ranga_amy, via Instagram**

Good question, to which the answer, in a word, is elastane. This synthetic fabric, most commonly used in Lycra and spandex, is often blended with denim or cotton to add just the right amount of stretch and comfort. This means that men with athletic builds, such as your husband, who have slim waists but muscular thighs can find jeans with enough “give” to fit comfortably without feeling tight.
This is an instance where the search functionality of online shopping makes life easier. Instead of having to rummage through each pair of jeans in a shop to look at the clothing label, you can just type the word “stretch” into the search box on the MR PORTER homepage and then filter to “Clothing” and then “Jeans” on the drop-down menu on the left. That will bring you here to a selection of (let’s tot this up) 117 different options. If you click on a pair and go to “Details & Care”, you’ll see it probably says something like “98% cotton, 2% elastane”. (Other blends include a small percentage of polyester and Lycra.) That tells you it’ll have enough stretch in the thigh without being too baggy elsewhere. Meanwhile, under “Size & Fit”, you can see whether or not the jeans fit true to size or if they come up a little baggy or a little tight – that way, you can select the correct size.
Of the selection we have on site, allow us to narrow it down further to these organic denim jeans from Nudie Jeans, this pair with a nice selvedge from Acne Studios, which look great with a turn-up, or these Fit 2 jeans from Rag & Bone, which are slim-fit but not super skinny. That said, we are increasingly seeing a looser fit in denim as we finally move away from super skinny jeans, so this will become less of an issue.
Try these


**I feel really uncomfortable in knitwear. How do I build a cold-weather wardrobe without it?
From @a.kckr, via Instagram**

I can’t imagine what bad experiences you’ve had with knitwear to make you want to banish it from your wardrobe (a debilitating phobia of moths, perhaps?), but don’t worry. There is hope. In our opinion, you can’t beat the softness of a cashmere sweater in the colder months, but you don’t need one to keep you warm. Instead, use this as an opportunity to experiment with different fabrics that avoid the potential stuffiness or itchiness that comes with knitwear.
You can get the warming benefits of wool without so much as looking at a mohair sweater. A flannel shirt is a good place to start. These always look good with checks. We like this one from Saint Laurent. For trousers, try this drawstring wool-blend pair from Acne Studios, which still feel lightweight. For something to layer underneath, try a merino-wool jersey T-shirt from Canadian outerwear specialist Arc’Teryx Veilance. It has all the temperature-control benefits of knitwear, but feels nothing like it. Ditto this jacket from Folk, which is made from a techy blend of cotton and shell with a jersey lining for extra warmth.
You’ll need a coat, too. Down is warmer than wool and with everything from smart jackets to skiwear on offer, there should be something you can find that works. Go to Moncler for a tried-and-tested ski classic, or Polo Ralph Lauren for something less sporty. Failing that, shearling. This rugged trucker jacket from Remi Relief is tough yet comfy and will look great with a pair of military boots, such as these from O’Keefe, to stomp your way through to spring.
So there you have it – a winter wardrobe free from knitwear. Still, I stand by what I said about cashmere sweaters, so we’ll leave this one from Loro Piana here just in case you change your mind.
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It’s warm again in California. How can I embrace spring style this early without going overboard?
From @zshep, via Instagram

Your misgivings are well placed. A glimmer of sun does not mean it is the right time to whip out that silk, floral-print camp-collar shirt from Gucci. Well, unless you’re going to a party or something. (This is a lesson that the people of Britain could really do with learning, by the way.) You’ll be pleased to know that there are other options for cooling down your look without taking a sartorial trip to Copacabana. We’re talking about swapping wintry fabrics – gabardine, twill, flannel – for summery ones – gauze, voile, seersucker. At this point in the year, seersucker is a fantastic option. It’s a relatively sturdy fabric but has a cooling effect, thanks to its crinkled texture, which stops it clinging to your skin. It used to be the case that you always got the same thing with seersucker –a light blue fabric with a striped appearance – but for spring 2018, it looks like designers have got wise to our ennui and are offering us far more versatile options. Consider, for example, these wool and silk seersucker trousers from Prada, which are both office appropriate and subtly springy. (Too much? Try these from Lardini.) Perhaps you’d prefer to usher in spring with a seersucker shirt. Try a gingham one from Altea, or this subtle camp-collared variation from British brand Private White V.C. Who knows, you may even develop such an affinity for seersucker that you decide to add a Thom Browne tie and cap to your collection, and then tuck yourself up in some Desmond & Dempsey seersucker pyjamas. We applaud all such notions as a riposte to rising temperatures in early spring.
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