In the world of menswear, hard-and-fast rules are generally on the wane, so the query in this week’s Style Questions column is an interesting one.

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Which colours are a no-no in the cold winter months?

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Well, there was a time when a gentleman would adhere to a rigid set of mantras. No brown in town, for example; that tone on shoes was for your country estate. Likewise, I have a friend who inhabits the upper echelons of the men’s magazine world who steadfastly insists that legs and toes should be visible only at the beach or pool. But as menswear becomes more all-encompassing, an “anything goes” attitude pervades. So, instead of laying down the rules about what’s not allowed, let us offer some gentle suggestions as what you could, and maybe should, say yes to colour-wise in winter.

This is a time when zingy tropical prints and pastel tones can seem out of step. Let’s start with the “non colours” that pervade a lot in winter: grey shades and camel hues. These are generally regarded as being the standard and, dare we say, safe options for winter, in that they are as subdued and stripped back as the trees outside. Black and grey in particular, while a perennial go-to, can wash out pale complexions that haven’t been lucky enough to escape for some winter sun. Think about offsetting them with beige to add warmth; a grey coat with a camel scarf can look molto Italiano.

While on the subject of neutral tones (and, for that matter, Italians), the camel coat is a classic and looks on point with cream and latte shades. These tones work particularly well on knitwear; there’s a cosiness to them that’s very après-ski chic. It’s no surprise that Italian master of cashmere Mr Brunello Cucinelli has made such colour combinations his mainstay.

Then we move on to the rust and jewel tones end of the colour spectrum. These darker hues are ideal for winter because they add subtle colour while looking appropriate. The Florentine men’s trade fair Pitti Uomo in January is a masterclass in what we’ll call the “spice rack” approach to colour – cinnamon, nutmeg and turmeric shades, which look particularly good on leather and suede because the patina ages so well and takes on a rugged richness. Wear them together and, like ingredients, the colours will blend happily.

From there, jewel tones such as claret, forest green and deep blue are informed choices because they are discreet rather than shouty, warm burgundy tones in particular. Winter’s the time for a more solid, and more formal, approach to dressing, and coats in these colours look great with a suit and accessories at the smarter end of the spectrum, such as office-appropriate Oxfords and handsome black briefcases.

On a similar thread, if your winter commitments involve some after-dark razzamatazz – cocktail events and the like – this side of the colour spectrum is elegant for evening; a plush velvet dinner jacket in lustrous amethyst will look debonair.

Finally, it’s also worth considering the heritage fabrics of winter that naturally bring nuanced shades because they add depth by combining different yarns – small-scale checks, for example, or tartans that splice different hues. Herringbone, tweeds and houndstooth checks are also worth a look. Even in dull shades such as grey, these fabrics will generally feature different materials that add various colours in an organic way, through the glimpse of forest green against brown on a plaid perhaps, or dark blue on grey. The world’s dark enough in winter as it stands.