Letting your guard down might seem like the last thing you’d want to do when someone is wielding sharp instruments near your head. But the barber’s chair is, for many men, effectively a therapist’s couch, their barber a “head shrinker” in more ways than one.

That’s no exaggeration: several initiatives, such as The Lions Barber Collective in the UK and The Confess Project in the US, train barbers in counselling and recognising signs of depression or suicidal tendencies. Barbers have carried out a dual function since Greek and Roman times, when their shops doubled as forums for socialising and gossip. From the Middle Ages, “barber-surgeons” also performed primitive surgery, including extracting teeth; the red-and-white poles symbolised blood and cleaning cloths.

Of course, barbers wouldn’t be around for long if they divulged gossip or anything more sensitive that they get out of patrons. One of the three master tonsorialists that MR PORTER consulted for this article insisted that “like with a doctor or a lawyer, the confidentiality between a barber and his client is sacred”; another simply replied: “No comment”. So instead, we asked them to share pointers on life, style and all things hair.

Taming barnets for “30 years, man and boy”, the Pankhurst London founder and W1 institution is holding trunk shows with Thom Sweeney in Hong Kong and Singapore from next month.

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If you could only give one piece of hair advice, what would it be?

Get a traditional cut that suits you. Keep it simple and keep it quality. Then stick with it.

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What’s the most common concern that men express to you about their hair?

Baldness and going grey, which is a blessing – just ask any bald man.

For greyness, avoid dye and get a grey hair shampoo: it will eradicate the yellow and make the silver shine.

There’s no good way to prevent baldness: embrace it. Get a short cut at least every four weeks, at an even length all over, and remove the corners. A thickening shampoo can make your hair fuller. Only some men can get away with shaving their heads – those with good shapes.

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What’s the most common haircut you get asked for at the moment?

Classic cuts. We tailor our cuts to our clients so we don’t really do “off-the-peg” – we’re more bespoke. That said, we tend to steer away from fades.

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What’s the strangest haircut you’ve ever done?

I don’t give strange haircuts!

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Any other style and grooming tips?

There are three keys to a good look: hair, watch and shoes. Everything follows from there.

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What’s the best piece of life advice you’ve ever given to a client?

“Never give up, and each day pay someone a compliment with a smile.”

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Since cutting his teeth in the 1980s, the London-based coiffeur of Oliver Spencer’s shows is routinely requested by the world’s top photographers, publications and talent

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If you could only give one piece of hair advice, what would it be?

It’s not what you wear, it’s how you wear it.

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What’s the most common concern that men express to you about their hair?

Hair loss and what to do about it. It’s a process of analysis: you need to understand personal history because it may be hereditary. I like to give options on how to move forwards with confidence.

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What’s the most common haircut you get asked for at the moment?

A fade: sides and back. I like to play with variations of texture on top but make it sexy.

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What’s the strangest haircut you’ve ever done?

Cutting and dyeing livestock.

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Any other style and grooming tips?

Sugar water – aka toffee – is a homemade, water-soluble styling lotion. Boil a pint of water then pour it into a jug, add 4-6 tablespoons of sugar and stir until dissolved. That’s my instant, fixative styling spray for hold, root lift and sculpting shape. [Editor’s note: wait for it to cool before transferring to a spray bottle, or putting on your hair.]

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What’s the best piece of life advice you’ve ever given to a client?

“Best you ask her to marry you as you are totally punching above your weight.”

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Another Soho fixture who’s been “in the game” for 35 years and counting, the founder of multi-award-winning contemporary barbershop Joe and Co. recently opened a six-month pop-up in Notting Hill, London

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If you could only give one piece of hair advice, what would it be?

Maintain the cut you have. In others words, what products to use and how to style it. There’s no point in having it look great in the shop and then you can’t do anything with it once you leave.

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What’s the most common concern that men express to you about their hair?

Hair thinning, going grey or not looking the same. Hair changes throughout the year and a lot of things can affect it, so you need to use the right shampoo and conditioner. Hair loss has a lot of factors, so if it’s not caused by diet, stress or a scalp condition, then you’ll have to see a specialist. Most options revolve around taking a drug to stop your hair shedding naturally. There’ve been some developments with stem cells, but it’s early days. Make sure you have a hormone and blood test yearly to check there’s nothing missing.

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What’s the most common haircut that you get asked for at the moment?

Longer and softer. We’re doing a lot more scissor cuts, and a version of the mullet is back.

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What’s the strangest haircut you’ve ever done?

A flat top with a long ponytail, 30 years ago. The guy wore a suit, so it didn’t look or feel quite right… Until he came in on a Saturday in leathers and denim on a Harley. So don’t always judge by first impressions.

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Any other style and grooming tips?

As men get older, we sprout hair in other places... Don’t cut your eyebrows as they come back thicker and bushier: pluck the longer and odd grey hairs. I’d recommend waxing ears and noses as it looks better and lasts longer. A little painful, but worth it.

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What’s the best piece of life advice you’ve ever given to a client?

“If it makes you truly happy, then do it. You only have one life.”

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