THE JOURNAL

Photographs by Anton Rodriguez and Issy Croker
Festive traditions, those routines and recipes that make this time of year special, are all well and good… Unless they aren’t. In which case, we’ve come up with a plan. In the spirit of self-improvement (and being generally nosy), we spoke to a few of our favourite chefs, restaurateurs and people with good taste to find out how to level up our approach to hosting this holiday season.
01. Plan ahead
“First and foremost, [you’ve got to] enjoy the party,” says Cinder founder Jake Finn. “Plan your menu well so that you’re not spending the whole night in the kitchen and can be with your guests eating, drinking and having a great time together.”
02. Play to your strengths
“Keep it simple and stick to what you know,” says Alta’s head chef Rob Roy Cameron. “Hosting a gathering is stressful enough without messing up a new recipe you’ve never tried before.”
03. Do sharing plates
“Sharing plates are very natural to me,” says Aji Akokomi of Michelin-starred Akoko. “Growing up, food was always something you ate together, and it was never about having your own dish. Cooking often happened outdoors or around a fire, and food was eaten slowly, with people coming and going, talking and laughing along the way. My favourites are marinated, wood-fire cooked dibi leg of lamb served with mustard sauce, marinated roasted onions, jollof rice and fried plantain.”
04. Take your time
“The holidays have always been marked by food that takes time, dishes that slowly come together and naturally draw people into the kitchen,” Akokomi says. “I remember food being prepared collectively, with many hands involved and plenty of conversation along the way. While the specific dishes may change, the idea of cooking with patience and sharing generously has remained constant. It’s that sense of togetherness that continues to mean the most to me.”
05. Dress the table
“Taught by my mum (who used to be a florist), every table needs flowers,” Finn says. “Try to avoid large centrepieces, though, as they can block conversations. I also like tall candlesticks, which help create some height on the table without blocking anyone. And if I’m doing a sharing table, I’ll prepare large bowls of crudités and freshly warmed breads with a variety of dips and nibbles on the table.”
06. Bring in your own traditions
“It’s super Mexican, but I absolutely love turkey and mole every year,” says KOL’s founder Santiago Lastra. “I always do different versions. My favourite so far has been brined, stuffed with truffle butter in-between the skin, fruit and vegetables inside. I also take the crown of the turkey out and roll it with a butcher string then grill it slowly in the barbecue, glazing with the juices of the duck mixed with cranberry juice and chillies.”
07. Think the drinks through
“Rather than complex pairings, I prefer choices that support the meal as a whole,” Akokomi says. “Freshness, acidity or gentle bitterness can lift richer dishes and spice without overpowering the food.”
08. And loosen things up at the end
“For dessert, I’m picking a well-balanced sweet wine,” Finn says. “When everything is done and dusted, I’ll crack a bottle of Macallan Rare Cask on the table. Everyone will be getting taxis home.” For a bolder flavour, “mezcal needs to be involved – and negronis,” Lastra adds.
09. Throw some spice in the mix
“I think genuinely caring is the secret ingredient for a great party,” Lastra says. “But, of course, olive oil and a few drops of vintage soy sauce always help. So does having a great spicy sauce at the table that makes people talk about how spicy it is.”
10. Pick the right Champagne
“There are three bottles that I think are perfect for drinking throughout Christmas Day,” says Sandia Chang, co-founder and sommelier at Kitchen Table. “All of which champion small, independent producers.”

11. Build the ultimate leftover sandwich
“Boxing Day is a proper tradition in our house,” says Tom De Keyser, head chef at The Chalk Freehouse. “While Christmas Day rotates between families, we spend Boxing Day all together. We’ll head to the local pub to watch the football, and afterwards build what’s become our signature leftover sandwich.
“We use bagels saved from Christmas morning – they’re perfect for it. You build it layer by layer: leftover roast potatoes, turkey, stuffing and veg, all bound with bread sauce, loads of butter and plenty of freshly cracked pepper. A generous smear of cold cranberry sauce inside finishes it perfectly. Then, you skewer the whole thing together with a pig in blanket.”
12. Don’t forget the sprouts
“I was determined to create a sprout recipe that stood out from the plethora of options typically featuring bacon,” says Paul Ainsworth, chef-patron at No 6 in Padstow, Cornwall. “If sprouts aren’t your thing, this might be the one time you change your mind – as they are not boiled, but pan-fried and full of flavour. If you don’t believe me, then cabbage and kale work, too. Spider crab meat is a tasty, sustainable option to use.

“Place a large wok or frying pan over a medium heat, add the sesame oil and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and gently cook the banana shallot and garlic, making sure not to colour them. Ater 2 minutes, add the sliced chillies and sushi ginger and cook for another 2 minutes. Remove the shallot mixture from the pan and transfer to a plate.
“Return the pan to the heat, add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and turn up the heat to high. When the pan and oil are nice and hot, add the shredded sprouts, season with sea salt and black pepper and stir-fry. Once the sprouts are slightly wilted, turn off the heat and stir the shallot and chilli mixture through the sprouts. Add the toasted sesame seeds and a quarter of the lemon and lime juice and stir well.
“Season the white crab meat with the remaining lemon and lime juice and the zests. Add the extra virgin olive oil and season with sea salt and a twist of black pepper.
“Spoon the sprout mixture into a serving bowl, then top with the white crab meat. Finish with the crisp spring onions, basil and coriander and drizzle with a little more extra virgin olive oil.
“Brussels sprouts like no other. Enjoy!”