Six Style Mistakes To Avoid This Decade

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Six Style Mistakes To Avoid This Decade

Words by Lili Göksenin

2 January 2020

01.

Break your vents

Several items of clothing, particularly tailored garments, come with their pockets and vents sewn shut. Sometimes they’re really tightly sewn, sometimes it’s just a tack or two. Either way, there seems to be some confusion about whether or not these seams are meant to be broken, particularly when it comes to coat vents. These stitches are there to help garments keep their shape as they are tried on by would-be buyers. Once the garment arrives in its forever home, those vents and seams should be broken and the threads removed. The best way to do this without accidentally snipping fabric is with a seam ripper, but small scissors will do. Snip, then pull. Most of this stitching is done with a single thread, which should come out easily. Now you are wearing the garment as the designer intended.

02.

Nail your shirt-to-jacket-sleeve ratio

This is another classic with which many men still seem to struggle. Allow us to set the record straight once and for all. Your shirtsleeve should peek out of your suit jacket sleeve by 1cm. Any more and your shirt looks gangly, any less and it looks like you’re not wearing a shirt at all. If you have shirts that have too-long sleeves or suits with too-short sleeves, or some combination of both, find yourself a good tailor, or even a reliable dry cleaners that does alterations, and master your ratio. It seems like a small thing, but it’s surprisingly noticeable. And it’s not difficult to address. Jackets can be shortened from the end of the sleeve upwards, which can involve losing a button, or, if you’re willing to pay a bit more, from the shoulder, which means the tailor will unpick it and then re-sew it.

03.

Gaping shirts

Ah yes, this one is delicate. As we, er, age or, ahem, gain a bit of weight, our clothes sometimes cease to fit correctly. This might not be an ideal turn of events, but it is not something to panic about. And it’s not something to ignore. Continuing to wear clothes that strain to contain you accentuates any weight gain. It does not mask it. One particularly obvious sign that it’s time to size up your shirt is when the buttons appear to be doing too much work holding the two sides of the garment together and a bit of skin or undershirt peaks out from beneath. Again, while this is perhaps not your dream scenario, there is no shame in wearing a shirt that actually fits you. The placket on the front of a shirt should lie flat against your torso. Trust us, not only will this look better, it will feel more comfortable.

04.

Trouser puddling

Moving on down to your leg sleeves, otherwise known as trousers. Trouser length is subject to trends. Sometimes we like them high water (see Thom Browne), sometimes we like them full length. What we never like is ill-fitting, over-long trousers that pool and puddle around your shoes. Flopsy ankles are for, well, they’re for no one. Familiarise yourself with the lingo and head to your tailor for a fitting. When a pair of trousers hits your shoe and creases, the divot in the fabric is called a break. Some men prefer their trousers to have a single break, some none at all (in this case, the trouser leg will fall to just above the shoe without creasing). Which you choose is up to you, but an extremely floppy break, or more than one, and you’re getting into poor-fit territory and probably decreasing the life of your trousers if they’re dragging on the floor as a result.

05.

Weather-appropriate footwear

You bought some boat shoes, driving moccasins or low-top sneakers last summer that go well with every outfit. Congratulations! They also look best when you wear tiny little socks, or no socks at all, and reveal your ankles to the world. Good on you. Very glad you’ve found a pair of shoes you love. Now, may we suggest you put them in a box and don’t look at them again until spring? There are few things more puzzling than a well-togged gent bundled up in down, tweed, cashmere and shearling while flashing naked ankles. Do you hate the tops of your feet so much that you are willing to subject them to sub-zero temperatures just to look good? It looks strange, not good, when you wear weather-inappropriate footwear. Do the right thing. Wear socks. Wear boots. Your feet will thank you and the world will, on the whole, make more sense.

06.

Event-appropriate footwear

We’re only just into the New Year, but benefit, gala and wedding season will soon be upon us, and that means formalwear. Now that you’ve nailed your suit-to-sleeve ratio, your shirt fits nicely over that Christmas paunch and your trousers are neatly tailored, it’s time to tackle your shoes. “But I have perfectly nice Oxfords that I wear to work,” you may say. “I’m all set, right?” Very sorry, but wrong. If you are attending a formal event, you should not be wearing the same scuffed brogues you trot out for your day job. If you’re an adult man, it’s almost certain you will, over the course of a lifetime, attend a significant number of fancy parties. Invest in some appropriate shoes, such as glossy patent Oxfords or velvet slippers. Then buy your shoes some shoe trees and a soft cloth and take care of them. These classic shoes don’t go out of style. If you play your cards right, they should see you through several party seasons. And if you wear them only for formal occasions, assuming no party disasters occur, they will always look relatively new and shiny.

Illustrations by Mr Ilya Milstein