THE JOURNAL
Waterfront Promenade on Ortigia Island, Syracuse, Sicily. Photograph by Mr Gary Yeowell/Getty Images
“Form is temporary; class is permanent,” said the legendary Liverpool FC manager Mr Bill Shankly, introducing an adage that would swiftly become an iron-clad sporting axiom. It survived, like all enduring clichés, because it is rooted in truth.
Class is permanent outside the beautiful game, too. And nowhere is this more apparent than in the avenues, architecture and aesthetics of the world’s capital cities, those time-honoured flag-bearers of any nation’s finest qualities.
But, as anyone from Winchester, Kilkenny or Scone will tell you, not all today’s capitals were the first flag-bearers, nor do they exhibit the most class, that air of unconsidered nonchalance that, as travellers, we all seek. What of their noble predecessors, those once fêted metropolises that geography, politics or business (or all three) cheated from their crowns? There are dozens of former capitals scattered across Europe, full of faded grandeur and fascinating charm, that are quietly waiting to be explored. And all without the stressful crowds, airport delays and price hikes of their frenetic municipal successors. If you’re looking for a different holiday this summer, check out Europe’s classiest forgotten capitals.
01.
Syracuse, Italy
Harbour of Ortigia Island, Syracuse, Sicily, Italy. Photograph by Mr Jan Wlodarczyk/Alamy
Perched on Sicily’s southeast coast, Syracuse was once an ancient, thriving metropolis of 300,000 people and the capital of the mighty Byzantine Empire. Hailed by the Roman scholar Cicero as the most beautiful city of his day, its snaking cobbled streets, magnificent churches and delightfully disarming piazzas remain gloriously intact, which makes for an inspiring alternative (or addition) to Sicily’s modern-day beach towns such as nearby Taormina.
Where to eat
Regina Lucia: rich Sicilian cuisine with a smart contemporary twist, served in elegant surroundings. reginaluciaristorante.com
Where to stay
Ortea Palace: a magnificent former post office from the Mussolini era, transformed into a palatial, light-filled hotel. orteapalace.com
What to pack
02.
Nafplio, Greece
Nafplio Port, Greece. Photograph by Shutterstock
This pretty Peloponnese port was Greece’s first post-independence capital after it shook off Ottoman rule in 1823. It was also the capital of Venice’s Kingdom of the Morea in the 17th and 18th centuries. According to Greek mythology, the city, which stands on a narrow natural peninsula that juts into the sparkling Bay of Argolis, was founded by Nafplios, the son of Poseidon. Today, it is an architectural delight, crammed with medieval castles, ancient monuments and neoclassical buildings and is celebrated for its beautiful beaches and sumptuous seafood restaurants.
Where to eat
Wild Duck: a cosy bistro that serves delectable modern Greek fare, best enjoyed from its patio tables near the pier. wildduck-nafplio
Where to stay
Nafplia Palace: a stately clifftop hideaway with breathtaking waterfront views. nafpliapalace
What to pack
03.
Poznań, Poland
Old Market Square Poznań, Poland. Photograph by Mr Thomas Kakareko
Equal parts Prague, Vienna and Krakow, it is ludicrous that Poznań, Poland’s original capital, is not better known to international travellers. A handsome medieval core houses a colourful array of shops, cafés and bars, plus a smattering of quirky museums, including one dedicated to the croissant and another to the humble potato. If fine dining is your thing, Poznań has you covered. It boasts some of Central Europe’s most innovative restaurants. Meanwhile, daredevil visitors can test their mettle on the epic stadium swing atop Lech Poznań’s football ground: a cross between a bungee jump, a trampoline and Tarzan on steroids.
Where to eat
Ratuszova: a beloved local restaurant that’s been preparing note-perfect Polish cuisine for more than 70 years. ratuszova.pl
Where to stay
City Park Hotel: an elegant boutique hotel in a prime location, with an award-winning spa. cityparkhotel.pl
What to pack
04.
Turku, Finland
Archipelago Islands, Turku, Finland. Photograph by Mr Jaakko Kivela, courtesy of Visit Finland
One of Nordic Europe’s best kept secrets, this southern Finnish city was the country’s capital for more than 500 years, until the Russians invaded in the early 19th century and plumped for Helsinki instead. Today, Turku is renowned for its arts and culture scene (its Wäinö Aaltonen Museum of Art and the music-focused Sibelius museum are both extraordinary and well worth a visit), as well as being the gateway to the Archipelago Sea where you will find a latticework of 20,000 pristine Baltic islands. Turku’s celebrated riverbank is crammed with its top restaurants and bars, which creates a lively mini-dining district at the heart of the city.
Where to eat
Mami: exceptional modern Scandinavian cuisine, in laid-back, understated surroundings. mami.fi
Where to stay
Hotel Kakola: a stylish boutique property in a former prison, which plays up to its history. hotelkakola.fi
What to pack
05.
Varaždin, Croatia
Old Town Varaždin, Croatia. Photograph by Mr Mario Jurina
Nicknamed “Little Vienna” by locals, Varaždin sits on the Drava River, just 50 miles north of Zagreb and was the capital of Croatia from 1756 until 1776. A bona fide baroque beauty, its centre is packed with 18th century splendour, quaint cafés and interesting museums, not to mention a majestic medieval castle. With cities such as Dubrovnik, Split and Zagreb now permanently saturated with tourists (and the price increases that inevitably follow them) charming Little Vienna is an affordable, laid-back alternative for those who want to experience old Croatia in its genuine glory.
Where to eat
Bedem: a cosy, award-wining restaurant that serves lavish modern fare at inexpensive prices, in the shadow of the old castle. bedem-varazdin.com
Where to stay
Park Boutique Hotel: a sleek, well-heeled hotel set in prime parkland at the heart of the city. park-boutique-hotel.eu
What to pack
06.
Coimbra, Portugal
Old Town Coimbra, Portugal. Photography by Mr Uriel Soberanes/Unsplash
This ancient hilltop city can point to a history that stretches back more than 2,000 years, but its golden age was during the 12th and 13th centuries, when it served as the capital of Portugal. Home to one of the oldest universities in Europe (founded in 1290), its steep, historic streets are surprisingly lively, with the student population lending a vibrancy that belies the silent medieval grace of the old town. Visit in May for the Queima das Fitas (Burning of the Ribbons), a time-honoured university tradition that has been elevated to city-wide festival status, with music, dancing and parades.
Where to eat
Zé Manel dos Ossos: hidden behind an unremarkable door near the riverfront, there are plenty who claim this is the best restaurant in Portugal.
Where to stay
Quinta Das Lágrimas: a lovingly restored former royal residence that oozes style and romance – and alone is worth the journey. quintadaslagrimas.pt
What to pack
07.
Edirne, Turkey
Selimiye Mosque, Edirne, Turkey. Photography by Ms Liz Coughlan/Alamy
Formerly known as Adrianople, Edirne boasts a selection of magnificent Ottoman buildings, particularly the 16th century Mosque of Selim, which dominates the city from a natural bluff with its colossal dome and bristling minarets. Located two and a half hours’ drive northwest of Istanbul, Edirne sits in what was once ancient Thrace, at a major continental crossroads. Because of this, it has a history of near-permanent war and invasion, until the 20th century. Happily, the only fighting happening there now is during its annual Kırkpınar Oil Wrestling Festival, when scores of wrestlers from across Turkey strip down, grease up and grapple each other for three days in order to claim a golden belt.
Where to eat
Ponsetya: high-end Mediterranean cuisine with accompanying rooftop views. restaurantguru.com
Where to stay
Margi Hotel: a five-star hotel and spa, handily positioned in the centre of Edirne. margiotel.com