THE JOURNAL

Mr Santiago Lastra’s langoustine tacos served at his restaurant KOL, London. Photograph by HDG Photography, courtesy of KOL
Travel is a collective fantasy. Cobalt-blue coastlines with sun-bleached white sand, rugged hills dotted with olive trees or crowded piazzas lined with restaurants and bars… We’ve all been dreaming about getaways to escape the monotony of being grounded. There’s been ample opportunity to fantasise about the vast beauty and culinary delights that exist beyond the confines of our homes and immediate neighbourhoods. We asked seven food industry insiders where they would love to eat this summer. From lavish feasts washed down with negronis to meditative plates of raw fish, these accounts of culinary escapes make us long to be tourists again.
01. Ms Gauri Devidayal
Sashimi in Tsujuki fish market, Tokyo

Ms Gauri Devidayal. Photograph by Ms Kirti Virmani & LBB
Ms Gauri Devidayal is the founder of The Table and Magazine Street Kitchen, Mumbai
“Japan is a mecca for dining and, for someone who loves food as much as I do, I still can’t believe I haven’t managed to get there yet. I long to be in the bustling Tsukiji fish market eating the most exquisite sashimi, glistening lobes of the freshest scallops, tuna, mackerel and bream. I imagine being served one delicate morsel at a time by a rigorously trained chef who is fixated on the art of perfection. No words are passed across the counter, only a hypnotic sequence of perfect plates of raw fish.”
02. Mr Russell Norman
Penne pasta with vodka in Alla Vecchia Bettola, Florence

Mr Russell Norman. Photograph by Mr Laurie Fletcher
Mr Russell Norman is the founder of Trattoria Brutto, London
“Alla Vecchia Bettola in Florence is my spiritual home. I imagine it on a Friday night, decibel levels through the roof in the no-frills dining room with stark white tiles and dazzling lighting, but the atmosphere is electric. I’m with friends who, like me, don’t care that the food is mediocre at best. A bizarre dish of penne pasta with vodka, some discs of unsalted bread with chicken liver pâté, but a wonderful T-bone beef chop, deliciously bloody and big enough to feed a small family. The point here at Bettola, like many authentic trattorias, is the mood. Florentines don’t have pubs where they might socialise over a pint. They get together over crostini and Campari in a neighbourhood joint where they can catch up on local gossip and enjoy simple, but tasty plates of local delicacies.”
03. Ms Sana Javeri Kadri
Salsiccia e cipolla pizza, Trieste

Ms Sana Javeri Kadri. Photograph by Ms Aubrie Pick
Ms Sana Javeri Kadri is the CEO and founder of Diaspora Co
“I grew up in India, but went to high school in Italy and this summer would have been my 10-year high school reunion in our little village on the limestone cliffs of the Adriatic Coast. I’m pining for Trieste, the place I used to call home. Ideally, I would share a piping hot slice of [supermarket] Tuttidi’s salsiccia e cipolla pizza with my former roommates. It is a slice of perfection – bubbled crust, just enough sauce, sausage perfectly seasoned with fennel and chilli. Just thinking about it makes me nostalgic and weepy for my 18-year-old self.”
04. Ms Letitia Clark
Almond granita, panelle, octopus salad, Sicily

Ms Letitia Clark. Photograph by Mr Matt Russell
**Ms Letitia Clark is the author of **Bitter Honey** and **La Dolce È Vita
“I read Matthew Fort’s account of travelling around Sicily years ago and I have harboured a dream to visit ever since. I live in Sardinia. There are as many similarities as there are differences from Sicily. The Italian way is a steady flow of meals throughout the day, so I would begin with something sweet at breakfast, such as an icy almond granita and a fresh, warm, orange-scented brioche with the obligatory espresso. A lunch of panelle (local fried chickpea fritters), followed by cold octopus salad and then a dinner of pasta with saffron, pine nuts, sardines and wild fennel and a perfectly crisp ricotta-filled cannolo to round things off. In Italy, we let the beauty of the produce speak for itself and, although the ingredients are the same, there are many regional variations. In Sicily, it is the sprinkling of the Arabic tradition and spices that makes for such interesting eating.”
05. Mr Santiago Lastra
Lobster tacos, Baja California

Mr Santiago Lastra. Photograph by Mr Haydon Perrior
Mr Santiago Lastra is the chef-patron of KOL, London
“I suppose if someone were to ask me what my death-row meal would be, this would be it. Lobster tacos in Baja California. They are made by locals in Puerto Nuevo. You have to be up before sunrise to get them. By the time you are back on the beach, the sun is rising and there’s a hive of cooking activity – very skilled men preparing the lobsters and cooking them in pork fat, while local women make fresh tortillas, rice, beans and various salsas, which you put together with the tacos. It’s a sensational meal and all washed down with natural orange wine made locally in the Baja valley. This is more than just a dish to me. It represents all the things I enjoy and cherish the most – nature, culture, craft, community, friends, tacos, lobsters.”
06. Ms Ixta Belfrage
Moqueca on Ponta Negra Beach, Natal

Ms Ixta Belfrage. Photograph courtesy of Ixta Belfrage
**Ms Ixta Belfrage is a chef and the co-author of **Flavour
“It’s a sort of retrospective fantasy of mine to gather my family together for a meal on Ponta Negra beach in Natal, in the northeast of Brazil, where my mother is from. It is the idyllic palm tree-lined Natal of my childhood, before the concrete resorts took over. Back then, there were only a few family-run fish restaurants. Our favourite was a beautiful shack in the sand. The tables were close enough to the sea that the water would lap up around your bare feet. The meal always stretched long past lunch into the evening. We’d eat a Brazilian seafood feast consisting of moqueca (a seafood stew), pirão (a porridge of sorts made by beating coarse cassava flour into hot seafood stock) and of course fresh grilled fish and prawns pulled straight from the sea. What I long for is the hospitality and warmth of the hosts, who treated you like long lost family and fluidly moved between being fishermen, grill cooks and caipirinha shakers.”
07. Ms Tara O’Brady
Thali, Ooty

Ms Tara O’ Brady. Photograph by Ms Stephanie Nortiz
**Ms Tara O’Brady is a food writer and the author of **Seven Spoons
“Ooty in Tamil Nadu is a hill station perched high up in the Nilgiri Mountains. I am nostalgic about the south Indian thali lunches served at local canteens. A thali is a cross between dim sum service and a buffet. Servers bring platters and pots around the room and offer a variety of delights to add to your already overflowing thal or plate. The south Indians are culinary wizards with vegetables. You’ll find an abundance of vegetable curries – crispy okra, plush potatoes with mustard seeds and curry leaves, green beans with coconut served alongside idlis (steamed rice cakes) or dosa (a sort of fermented rice and lentil crepe) and rice. I especially crave the steaming bowls of sambar, full of plump drumsticks to split and drag across your teeth as one does with artichokes. In this last year, we have had to be so aware of our surroundings, of our safety, of our proximity to others that I miss the feeling of eating communally, of eating the same food as everyone else there and comparing notes.”