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How To Cook London’s Best Dishes: Kiln’s Crab Clay Pot Noodle Soup

1 week agoWords by Ms Heather Taylor

Photograph by Ms Heather Taylor

Smoke-and-fire cookery is hot in the London restaurant scene in 2019 and at Kiln they take it to the next level. The menu pays homage to the bold, fiery dishes founder Mr Ben Chapman tasted on a research trip to northern Thailand and there’s no electricity or gas in sight. Instead, the food – smoky lamb and cumin skewers, thick, sour turbot curry laced with turmeric – is cooked in clay pots or clattering iron woks over smouldering charcoal fires.

When asked to describe the food, head chef Mr Meedu Saad, who took on the role earlier this year, says, “The word challenging springs to mind.” Indeed, delving into the thick, spice-laden clay pot noodle broths and fragrant Burmese curries is something of an assault on the senses. But the experience, as Mr Saad says, always ends up being, “thought provoking and, above all else, nourishing”.

Mr Saad and the Kiln team make regular trips to Thailand, cooking in people’s homes and travelling through the Isaan region. They develop dishes for Kiln that combine these traditional techniques with day-boat British fish and house-butchered meat. “We’re lucky to work with such talented growers and farmers,” says Mr Saad.