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The Insider Champagnes You Need To Know

6 days agoWords by Ms Aimee Hartley, editor of Above Sea Level

Mr Charles Dufour’s vineyard in Landreville. All photographs by Ms Lucy Murray Willis, courtesy of Above Sea Level

The origins of champagne are noble and religious, celebratory and decadent. A historic region and style of wine that bears the same name, it is a drink, as legend would have it, that was ushered into accidental existence by Benedictine monk Mr Dom Pérignon in 1693, and led to fame by the kings and poets whose lips it has graced for centuries.

Established houses, such as Moët & Chandon, Lanson and Ruinart have flown the flag in the region for decades. Yet Grower Champagne, or just “growers”, defined as single producers who own and tend to their own vineyards, have become the new custodians of craft-led wines in the region. We highlight three growers – Messrs Charles Dufour, Olivier Collin and Raphaël and Vincent Bérèche – who are starting a fresh conversation around an age-old tipple.