THE JOURNAL
Mr Hedi Slimane’s designs for CELINE HOMME have always straddled two worlds. On the one hand, there is the subcultural underground scene of California, and a broader fascination with the codes of American style in general (they have been a lifelong source of inspiration for the designer). On the other, there is a distinctly European commitment to elegance, rigour and classicism, influenced by CELINE’s own post-war heritage. The tension between those two poles has created a clearly defined visual language for the brand’s menswear and, in the process, produced some of the most compelling – and widely imitated – clothes of recent years.
Nowhere is that more evident than in the brand’s latest collection, which is fittingly entitled Dysfunctional Bauhaus. In keeping with the US-meets-Europe theme, it was first showcased in June 2022 in Paris soundtracked by the New York new-wave band Gustaf. As the collection’s somewhat cryptic name implies, the show was about taking the classic symbols of young Americana and refracting them through the prism of European aesthetics.
If that sounds challenging, it wasn’t. The result was direct, punchy and highly effective. Slimane’s approach to design has always been about evolution over revolution. It is best to think of his collections as gradually refining the style of counterculture down to its purest essence. Which means there are plenty of considered classics for long-time followers of his style to admire: perfectly textured Argyle sweaters, artfully distressed denims, a classic trucker jacket updated in matt black leather. As with so much of CELINE HOMME, these clothes are only going to look better as they wear and become part of your everyday wardrobe rotation.
There are some surprises spattered among those pieces, too. Namely, a faux-leather coat printed to look as though it is crafted from python skin and a series of jackets that turn to reveal crystal-embellished leather fringing on their reverse. Not forgetting the cashmere-cardigan-and-camo-shorts ensemble that the actor Mr Timothée Chalamet wore to last year’s Venice Film Festival. Is there anyone who better embodies the US-Europe mash-up?
As the collection drops on MR PORTER, scroll down to take a look at some of our favourite pieces.