What’s New: LOEWE’s Effortless Hoodie With Hippy Pedigree

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What’s New: LOEWE’s Effortless Hoodie With Hippy Pedigree

Words by Mr Jim Merrett

15 April 2021

Ask a certain kind of music critic about the history of Ibiza, and they’ll say it all began in 1987, when a clutch of British DJs including Messrs Paul Oakenfold and Danny Rampling first shored up. There, their exposure to house music and, let’s not beat around the bush, MDMA changed the course of British popular culture far beyond the 2000 film Kevin & Perry Go Large.

LOEWE’s collaboration with legendary Balearic boutique Paula’s Ibiza, however, delves back further. OK, so the collection only came into being five years ago. And, true, the first recorded settlement on the White Isle dates back to 654BC, when the Phoenicians set up shop (and those guys knew how to party). From there, their spin-off civilisation the Carthaginians elbowed their way into the DJ booth, with the Romans, Vandals, Byzantines, Moors and – improbably – Norwegians taking it in turns to drop bangers. But the chapter we’re specifically interested in here begins midway through the 20th century.

Largely cut off from the mainland after the Spanish Civil War, the Balearic Isles escaped the worst tyranny of Franco’s rule and instead, from the 1950s, found itself on the circuit for international travellers. By the 1970s, it had become a honeypot for hippies who were already dabbling in the, ahem, pursuits Oakenfold and Rampling discovered the best part of two decades later. Amid this throng, a German architect called Mr Armin Heinemann acquired a clothes shop.

“The spirit of letting go is, for me, forever associated with this unique place”

“We only had a very, very small window – like 3ft by 3ft – but he was able to make that the attraction of the street,” Heinemann later told Vogue of Mr Stuart Rudnick, co-founder of the legendary boutique Paula’s. “Everybody who passed by there stopped and looked at it. That’s how it became famous, our shop, because it was alive.”

LOEWE’s own history goes back a lot further than most; 175 years, in fact. But since 2016, the two very different sartorial institutions have becoming entwined. When first introducing the Paula’s Ibiza line, Mr Jonathan Anderson, LOEWE’s creative director, drew on his own family holidays on the island. And the collection came full circle, or rather smiley, last year with a collection that nodded to rave culture.

The class of 2021 takes that theme and runs with it (or, at the very least, saunters lazily). “Filled with personal memories of summers on the island, LOEWE Paula’s Ibiza 2021 captures my idea of escapism,” Anderson says. “The spirit of letting go is, for me, forever associated with this unique place.”

It arrives in two drops, the first on MR PORTER this week, and is awash with fun prints inspired by the natural world. (It really is alive.) Crocodiles, elephants and jellyfish, plucked from the imaginations of the boutique’s founders and let loose. Loose being the operative word when describing much of the collection, which includes clothes, bags and yoga mats, showcasing prints and colour schemes of what Anderson calls “retina-burning jollity”. Our pick of the first batch: this oversized hoodie with a shirt collar and cuffs – and covered with embroidered parrots, obviously. Which is exactly the sort of effortless mix that belongs on the dance floor this summer.

Island style