If you were led into Bar Pisellino blindfolded, you’d swear you’d been transported to a locals’ neighbourhood of Venice when it was whipped off. This West Village all-dayer is a faithful recreation of the venerable Italian caffe, right down to the marble-topped bar and bench seating. The duo behind it, chefs Mses Jody Williams and Rita Sodi, know their stuff. Their Via Carota in Greenwich is a perennial favourite and here, they’ve built a venue that feels just right, no matter the time of day. A morning stand-up espresso, a chicken Milanese at lunchtime, spritz and cicchetti in the evening. Si, grazie.