It’s a radical notion in an industry that’s defined by conspicuous consumption, but new brand Tempus Now doesn’t want you to buy clothes you don’t need or love. Founded by former womenswear designer Ms Ora Fine, the label specialises in sustainably minded clothing that doesn’t cost the Earth. A subgenre of style that’s sometimes looked upon with suspicion, eco-friendly clothing has often been derided for being drab or downright dull. Ms Fine’s designs mark a clean break from that tradition. Inspired by her South African roots, there’s plenty of prints, colour-blocking and even a bright pink chore jacket made from repurposed deadstock denim. A perfect combination of good design and materials isn’t necessarily enough, though. “Creating the desire to purchase in men is a lot more difficult,” Ms Fine tells us. “You have to justify the value.” To celebrate Tempus Now’s arrival at MR PORTER, we spoke to the designer about how she’s risen to the task, why we should say goodbye to fast fashion and how proper, dedicated craftsmanship is more relevant than ever.

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Why did you start Tempus Now?

I was designing a womenswear line, and I loved the process and became intimately connected with the sample makers and cutters in the design room. Their skill and dedication moved me deeply. You could feel the loving hands in every shirt we made. And then came time for personal reflection. I needed a creative reset. I was questioning my role in the garment business (it is a business!) and I wanted to make things without commercial consideration. Just to make. This led me on a six-month journey from Los Angeles to Tel Aviv, some time in Europe, South Africa and then back to LA. I had time to reconsider the notion of consumption and how and why we acquire things. I was drawn to menswear for that reason. It seemed that men acquire things with purpose and with longevity in mind. I wanted to make something that would last, but also be conscious of the manufacturing process, to eliminate waste and to celebrate local labour and artisanal craft. And so, Tempus Now was born.

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What is Tempus Now’s ethos?

To consume consciously, with thought and consideration into why we acquire things. But even more important than the why, is the how. How are things made? From the origin of the fabric, to the detail and elements of construction. It’s an ethical and moral consideration to cause the least amount of harm to people and the planet. It’s also about survival and taking a long-term view, and is a much-needed departure from the over-consumption of fast fashion or even hype luxury with no feeling for the true cost of how and why things are made.

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How does that come through in the collection?

I try make as many thoughtful choices as possible when it comes to selecting fabrics that are recycled (cashmere), organic (cotton shirting), fair trade, hand-woven, or hand-dyed. And using buttons that are made from recycled paper and yet have a beautiful texture and feel.

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Can you tell us a little bit about your design process?

It often starts with music. From Fela Kuti to Bob Marley, a mood unfolds and I start to gather images that evoke the same feeling, delving into [Malian photographer] Malick Sidibé or [German filmmaker] Wim Wenders. Studying the dress and attitude of the subjects, thinking about form over function. And once I have built up [the] context, I source fabrics that make sense and build on very simple menswear silhouettes.

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Can you elaborate on the inspirations for the current collection?

This collection’s mood started with Richard Diebenkorn paintings. I became obsessed with the colour and complexity of the composition. There was a sense of exuberance and optimism that encouraged me. You see this blocking in the recycled cashmere sweaters. I also spent hours poring over Malick Sidibe’s photographs from the same era: Mali in the 1970s. The images are black and white, but they project a magnificent sense of freedom and play. And there is an emphasis on “Americana” but with an African interpretation. Fresh and playful. Denim [also] plays a major role and is reimagined.

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When did you first become interested in fashion?

I’m not so much interested in fashion per se, but rather the idea that dressing is a way of projecting a sense of oneself. I tend to avoid trends and prefer to place the man or woman at the centre of his or her own universe. Clothing can do this in a way that is subtle yet significant.

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You’ve said before that colour is very important in your collections; why is that?

Colour conveys emotion. It can be simple or highly complex. A difference in hue or depth can change the meaning of a colour; a tiny adjustment and an entirely new feeling can emerge. I also love the relationship between colours as they sit side by side. A burnt red with a pale pink, [for example].

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