Why a flash of white at the ankle can actually be stylish.

A quick internet search on the topic of men wearing white socks illustrates why it remains relatively contentious and unchartered territory in 2017. On the first page of Google there is an article from 2004 – practically the Dark Ages in web history – by the BBC who wonder whether they are in bad taste. Another, from 2009, by AskMen, tells us the reasons why they must not be worn under any circumstances. Only a few links published this year discuss how we might enjoy a healthy relationship with these things. So, some of us are still catching up to this trend – which, whether influenced by slider-wearing hipsters, streetwear fanatics, or penny loafer-loving men inspired by 1950s Ivy Leaguers – is slowly creeping back into our wardrobes after a little while in the wilderness. Below, we look at three ways to wear white socks without looking like a middle-aged American tourist.

If you take even a fleeting interest in men’s magazines you will be familiar that picture of Mr Paul Newman. You know the one: where he’s drinking a beer on a boat. He’s wearing a slouchy grey sweater, cream chinos, plimsolls and, adapting the preppy way of wearing white socks popularised by Ivy League students in the 1950s and 1960s, he looks comfortable, classic and contemporary. We’ve tried to recreate it here, with a bit of a difference – after all, it might be rather ill-advised to compete with one of history’s best-dressed men. Instead, we’d rather learn from him. The main lesson is to avoid a white-out, by ensuring your trousers are a slightly different shade to your socks. Go for a pair in cream or beige, such as these from AMI.

The recent trend for wearing white socks owes more to the appropriation of sportswear and 1990s skate culture than preppy 1950s style. Here, we’re taking our cue from the skate scene and pulling our socks up above a pair of off-white AMI sneakers. Even if you’ve never stepped foot on a skateboard (nevermind attempted an ollie) you’ll be able to pull this look off. There are two steps to this particular trick. First, pick a pair with some detail on them. And then make sure you don’t yank them up too high. Also remember that while this may be a playful way to wear white socks, you don’t need to go overboard with the rest of your outfit. To ensure you don’t end up looking like an unruly youth, balance this dark Hawaiian shirt by Wacko Maria with a pair of smart cotton-twill shorts and you’ll be ready to roll.

If you want to dip your toes quite literally into this trend but don’t want to forgo your usual smarter style, there is still a way to get on board without parading on top of a boat or skating around town. The idea here is to let the white socks blend in with the rest of the look. Try not to flash too much ankle, wear casual off-white shoes, and ensure your trousers are a contrasting shade. Then, you can go smart and bold, by adding a sweater such as this from Acne Studios, and a Prince of Wales check coat from Wooyoungmi.

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