THE JOURNAL
Yes, we all remember the “puffy vest” scene in season two of Succession. And while things didn’t turn out too bad for Tom Wambsgans in the end – maybe his hopes and dreams really were stuffed in that Moncler bodywarmer – the show served as a reminder that there’s a right time and place for even the most versatile item of clothing. Or, rather, there’s the right gilet.
Because, whether worn as outerwear in its own right or as a mid-layer under a jacket, blazer or coat, a gilet can be the piece that keeps you warm while also making an outfit sing. But also: context. Certain situations require certain items. So, while a voluminous down vest really can help you adapt to most meteorological conditions, there are always social rules to consider. In short, read the room.
As we enter the biannual phase we like to call “the gilet window” – when the gilet might be the first outer layer you turn to – it becomes paramount to know where yours will take you. What works on a weekend hike might not swing it in the boardroom. (Unless you own the company, in which case, knock yourself out.) With that in mind, here are five gilet tribes and the items to hope and dream for.
01. The investment vest
The best way to step into the C-suite while looking pretty sweet? An elevated gilet. What Tom got wrong in Succession is both scale and material. When the slopes you’re trying to scale are financial indicators, bulky ski gear is out of its element. Instead, try leather-trimmed suede, cashmere or, at a push, a pared-back quilted shell that says next level, not Courchevel. Think of it as a modern-day waistcoat and style it accordingly – over a shirt, tee or turtleneck, under a blazer or suit jacket. Here, Brunello Cucinelli, Canali, ZEGNA, TOM FORD and Loro Piana are the names to know.
02. The gilet for the great outdoors
If you want to be ready for changeable climatic conditions, but also need your arms free for imitating bird calls, a rugged vest might be for you. Typically packing an insulating down filling, this will have your back. And also your front. Look for padded pieces that will easily layer up and/or pack down. Plus, pockets – because you’re a man who has things to put in them. Go for technical ripstop materials or take the more traditional route. Either way, you’ve got this down.
03. The free-spirited vest
You want to invest in time-honoured traditions (in which case, may we point you towards our Consciously Crafted collections) – but show you’re ahead of the curve, too. Good news: a new generation of designers has stepped up to offer natty garms that are fashion-forward, but put age-old techniques first. Brands such as Story mfg., Kartik Research and KAPITAL bring artisanal skills to the forefront, producing singular pieces that really stand out. Wearing your heart on your sleeve, if you had one.
04. The sporty gilet
Scenes at White Hart Lane in May 2014 as the Tottenham Hotspur FC manager Tim Sherwood threw his signature club-branded gilet into the crowd after what turned out to be his last game in charge. Wedded to a 4-4-2 formation, Sherwood was never noted for innovation in terms of management, hence his tongue-in-cheek nickname, “Tactics Tim”. In hindsight, though, he was ahead of the game, sartorially speaking. If not so much seen on a football pitch itself, those taking part in a range of other sports – think climbing, golf, even fishing – could make use of this adaptable item. An extra layer to help ease into a cold start.
05. The cooler bodywarmer
The first rule of this subculture of gilet wearer is that the word “cool” isn’t cool. Even “wavey garms” sounds like something their grandad would say (when Gen Z writes the marketing script). Nevertheless, within fashion circles, the vest is a vibe. That could mean a directional piece of drip, blown out of proportion. Or a colourful, cutting-edge collaboration. It could even be a technical vest set to stealth mode to counterbalance the rest of an outlandish get-up or juxtaposed against more traditional dress. OK, maybe Tom Wambsgans was right about the Moncler all along…