THE JOURNAL
Photography by Skwad Photography/Blaublut-Edition.com, Ms Ylenia Cuéllar/Blaublut-Edition.com, Mr Vincenzo Grillo/launchmetrics.com/spotlight
Yes, we all remember the “puffy vest” scene in season two of Succession. And while things didn’t turn out too bad for Tom Wambsgans – maybe his hopes and dreams really were stuffed in that Moncler bodywarmer – the show served as a reminder that there’s a right time and place for even the most versatile item of clothing. Or, rather, there’s the right gilet.
Because, whether worn as outerwear in its own right or as a mid-layer under a jacket, blazer or coat, a gilet can be the piece that keeps you warm while also making an outfit sing. But also: context. Certain situations require certain items. So, while a voluminous down vest really can adapt to most meteorological conditions, there are always social rules to consider. In short, read the room.
As we enter the biannual phase that we like to call “the gilet window” – when the gilet might be the first outer layer you turn to – it becomes paramount to know where yours will take you. What works on a weekend hike might not swing it in the boardroom. (Unless you own the company, in which case knock yourself out.) With that in mind, here are five gilet tribes and the items to hope and dream for.
01. The luxe-vest investor
Photograph by Mr Daniel Bruno Grandl/Blaublut-Edition.com
The best way to step into the C-suite while looking pretty sweet? An elevated gilet. What Tom got wrong in Succession is both scale and material. When the slopes you’re trying to scale are financial indicators, bulky ski gear is out of its element. Instead, try leather-trimmed suede, cashmere or, at a push, a pared-back quilted shell that says next level, not Courchevel. Think of it as a modern-day waistcoat and style it accordingly – over a tee, turtleneck or shirt, under a blazer or suit jacket. Here, Brunello Cucinelli, ZEGNA and Loro Piana are the names to know. And that other Tom – Mr Ford.
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02. The great outdoorsman
If you want to be ready for changeable climatic conditions, but also need your arms free for imitating bird calls, a technical vest might be for you. Typically deploying an insulating down filling in a water- or wind-resistant shell, this will have your back. And also your front. Look for padded pieces that will pack down. Plus, pockets – because you’re a man who has things to put in them. A ripstop Polartec gilet would be a nice thing to have on an epic scramble up a demanding scree slope, for sure. It wouldn’t be out of place in the queue for the Post Office, either.
03. The free spirit
Photograph by Mr Jason Jean/Blaublut-Edition.com
You’re trying to disinvest from companies that are leaving a negative footprint on our planet – but you want to look tight while doing so. Good news: a new generation of designers is stepping up to offer natty garms that won’t cost the Earth. And you know that a gilet is part of this package. Brands such as Story Mfg., Kartik Research and KAPITAL bring artisanal skills to the forefront, turning their products into a showcase for forgotten techniques. We’re talking hand-dyed organic natural fibres that put all that good stuff front and centre. Wearing your heart on your sleeve, if you had one. And not just a lower impact, but completely armless. Sorry, harmless.
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04. The aesthete athlete
Scenes at White Hart Lane in May 2014 as the Tottenham Hotspur FC head coach Mr Tim Sherwood threw his signature club-branded gilet into the crowd after what turned out to be his last game in charge. Wedded to a stodgy 4-4-2 formation, Sherwood was never noted for innovation on the football pitch, hence his tongue-in-cheek nickname, “Tactics Tim”. In hindsight, though, he was ahead of the game, sartorially speaking at least. OK, perhaps you wouldn’t deploy a gilet in football except for training. However, those taking part in a range of other sports – from cycling to golf to running – could make use of this adaptable item. An extra layer to help ease into a cold start, it can add a sleek edge to your kit.
05. The cooler bodywarmer
Photograph by The Style Stalker/Blaublut-Edition.com
The first rule of this sub-culture of gilet wearer is that the word “cool” isn’t cool. Even “wavey garms” sounds like something their grandad would say (when Gen Z writes the marketing script). Nevertheless, within fashion circles, the vest is “a vibe”. That could mean a directional piece of drip, blown out of proportion. Or a colourful, cutting-edge collaboration. It could even be a technical vest set to stealth mode to counterbalance the rest of an outlandish get-up. Bonus points if your bodywarmer is the only item of clothing worn above your waist.
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