When adidas Originals founder Adolf Dassler introduced the Samba in 1949, it’s unlikely he envisaged a shoe that would still be setting the style template more than 75 years later. As with other iconic designs, it was built with a specific purpose in mind – in this case, ensuring football players were able to keep a firm footing on frozen training grounds. But swap this for the demands of the basketball court for successive flagship models, from Converse’s Chuck Taylor All Star to adidas’ Superstar to Nike’s Air Force 1.

What unifies these timeless styles is a sense of simplicity, that form follows function and, somehow, form is improved because of that. It plays into the philosophy of Dassler’s compatriot, the industrial designer Dieter Rams, who famously said “good design is as little design as possible”. Or, more succinctly, “less, but better”.

Thanks to detailed archives, previously forgotten models are now frequently dusted down and reimagined for a second lease of life. Not that you have to peer way back into the annals of sporting achievement for some of today’s most notable sneakers. A modern generation of designers – from Maison Margiela to TOM FORD – have their own take on the retro sports shoe, constructed from premium materials, in silhouettes plucked from their own imaginations.

Whichever way you go, restraint is key. These shoes may have been designed for an icy football pitch or nothing more treacherous than a fashion-show runway, but in their pared-back approach, they will likely go with anything in your wardrobe.

Not all designers ascribe to the minimalist ideals of Rams, of course. The sneaker market has swelled enormously over the past 10 years and shows little signs of slowing down – projections point to a further 4.7 per cent annual growth to the end of the decade in the UK, while indicators suggest the US market could soon be worth more than $100 billion, with the resale market expected to reach $30 billion by 2030 (get ahead now: learn more about MR PORTER RESELL here). A lot of this is fuelled by designer collaborations, exclusive colourways and limited-edition drops. And often, under such conditions, you want to make sure your new release gets noticed. Here, “more is more” might be a better mantra.

For some designers, this footwear frenzy means eye-catching new concepts that take the accepted form of the sporting shoe to new heights – or certainly exaggerated proportions. Balenciaga, under the aegis of creative director Demna in particular, has earned a reputation for its zeitgeist-defining releases that may lean on the DNA of the sneaker, but are very much their own thing.

Elsewhere, you’ll notice certain models that look vaguely familiar if you squint. Traditional sportswear brands have increasingly looked towards the latest talents of the fashion world to entirely reenergise archival lines. Here, Wales Bonner’s efforts for adidas Originals are a big factor in the current ubiquity of the Samba. There’s no just dipping a toe into the market here – it’s about taking the sneaker and, well, running with it.

Pushing the limits is not just an aspiration of designers hoping their latest model picks up some heat. The rise of outdoor pursuits – hiking, trail running, gravel biking and their like – has run in parallel with the emergence of Gorpcore as a menswear trend. Meaning that chunky shoes designed more in line with off-road running are becoming increasingly commonplace, even on the city streets that they’re supposed to take you away from.

In this sector, mesh and TPU uppers and overlays come into their own. Technical fabrics such as GORE-TEX are employed to ensure the elements stay where they are supposed to – outside your shoe. Soles, too, become more pronounced, tailored for stability and grip on uneven, grainy and slippery surfaces. Cushioning can also be utilised for comfort. For some brands, these functional features can become jumping-off points for more radical designs.

Sure, not every pair of Salomon XT-6s you see out there are put through their paces in the wilderness most weekends. (As the unofficial shoe of today’s creative directors, that Contagrip sole is more likely to be shuffling across design-studio floors than scree slopes.) But it’s good to know that they could…

You could reason that technical advancement has always been at the core of performance footwear. That sport demands incremental progression in its thirst for new records and PBs, and that running shoes in particular are a big factor in that. What has perhaps changed in recent years is that shoes at the bleeding edge of professional athletics are finding their way onto the feet of fashionistas faster than ever before.

For a detailed breakdown of what to look for in a pair of performance running shoes, read MR PORTER’s expert guide. There’s no doubt that such footwear firepower will do much for your stats on Strava, but also improve your comfort and potentially take you farther. Brands including On have pioneered cushioning systems such as CloudTec for more spring in your step. You’ll still be putting the effort in, but your shoes will be doing some of the legwork for you.

All of which hasn’t escaped the attention of certain designers. LOEWE’s recent collaborations with On have used the running brand’s architecture as a platform that optimises forward motion, but is also fashion forward.

While the name suggests they were originally designed for the court, rubber-soled tennis shoes were first found in the kit bags of 19th-century British Navy seamen. They wore the shoes to prevent keeling over on slippery, see-sawing decks. The British aristocracy – no strangers to maritime exploits themselves – began to wear the shoes during tennis games due to their excellent traction, and the name stuck.

With their sleek, elegant profile and ability to pair with casual and dressy looks, tennis shoes have become the bread and butter of the modern sneaker offering. And while every brand worth its salt has its own take on the ageless design, adidas produces some of the most classic styles, including the Stan Smith, which first appeared with that name in 1973.

In many ways, the popularity of this hallmark design paved the way for brands such as Common Projects, SAINT LAURENT and TOM FORD, who have reinterpreted the style for 21st-century tastes, garnering a loyal following in the process. Whether you opt for box-fresh white or classic black, the inherently fuss-free slickness of tennis shoes makes them work seamlessly with whatever else you’ve got on – everything from polos and chino shorts in summer to woollen trousers and chunky knitwear on cooler days.