From cropped hems to dropped crotches – how what you wear from the waist down can change your silhouette as a whole.

There’s something terribly prosaic about the word “trousers” isn’t there? Every time we at MR PORTER start writing one of these articles, we wish there was some more exciting alternative way to describe our two-legged friends. Yet, alas, “trousers” it is. There’s nothing we can do about it. It’s a shame because not only are such pieces crucial to a man’s wardrobe, they actually, perhaps more than any other, allow you to transform the shape of your body in many interesting ways. A man squeezed into a pair of skinny jeans has quite a different impact to one sporting the latest wide-legged examples from Balenciaga. Cropped trousers can make you look taller. Tapered trousers can make you look slimmer. In fact, if we had to suggest a new, more suitable name for this humble yet potent garment, it would be something along the lines of “MR PORTER’s wonderful leg shapers”. But that doesn't entirely roll off the tongue either, does it? Sigh. Anyway, here’s our guide to five common trouser shapes and what they can do for you.

There was a time when “ankle swingers” were considered the height of uncool – for much of the 1990s and 2000s, in fact, the expectation was that you wore your casual trousers a little overlong, so they would pile up in folds atop your shoes. These days, however, a cropped trouser is almost standard (we blame the growing accessibility of images from runway fashion shows, in which trousers are invariably cut short so you can see the shoes better). The good news about this is that if you’re of short or average height, cropped trousers will make you look slightly taller, as well as, rather obviously, allow the world a glimpse of your socks or ankles, if you happen to be particularly proud of either. Of course, you can turn any pair of trousers into a cropped variety, by taking them to your tailor and getting them shortened to just above the ankle (we would recommend asking for a slight taper, too). But if you’re of a medium height (about 5ft 10in and above), we’d highly recommend this off-the-peg version from Barena, which comes with a slight crop, neat taper and smart turned-up cuff. Wear them with shoes with a low profile – chukkas or mid-height shoes will counteract the cropped effect – such as these suede slip-on sneakers from Officine Generale.

A pleat, in case you didn’t know, is a fold in the fabric of a garment which, as it drapes downwards, creates extra volume. When it comes to trousers, pleats tend to come in ones (subtle) and twos (dramatic), and are distributed either side of the waistband to make for a more expansive silhouette around the hips. The two-pleat options offered by Neapolitan tailoring house Rubinacci are exemplary in this regard, proposing a high-waisted fit that exaggerates the effect of the deep folds beneath. To carry them off, it’s best to keep your top half fairly neat, otherwise you’ll end up with something of a sausage-like profile. We suggest opting for a camp-collar shirt from Caruso, which comes with a straight hemline that will allow the pleats to billow out underneath. You may even want to consider tucking it into the waistband – this is the approach most often favoured by Mr Luca Rubinacci himself.

As the name suggests, these trousers come tapered from the knee downwards, conforming much more neatly to the shape of one’s actual legs. Certainly a good thing if you have particularly nice legs, of course, but even if you don’t, a tapered trouser can give a feeling of sleekness and sharpness. Given their carrot-like shape, you want to avoid adding a very heavy or voluminous item to your top half, or it all ends up a little bit Johnny Bravo. Instead, we suggest wearing them with a slim-fit merino wool sweater or, if you’re looking to go a little smarter, a neatly fitting blazer. This grey number from Korean brand Solid Homme comes in a stretchy cotton-blend that will adhere to your figure exceptionally well, and is a great counterpart for a pair of Acne Studios’ tapered Ryder trousers.

Occassionally, circumstances demand decent trousers that don’t have too much going on. The straight-legged fit of a relaxed pair of trousers isn’t pleated or tapered, and they have an off-duty feel perfect for a walk to the pub (and hopefully back again). If you are going to opt for a relaxed pair of trousers, it’s a good idea to keep the rest of your outfit relaxed, too, which means that if you wear a shirt with them, make it casual and keep it untucked. This one from Engineered Garments has a roomy fit at the back which will look chilled out but not slouchy, and will pair particularly well with these beige chinos from Incotex which are made from a “four-season cotton blend”, which in layman’s terms means that they’ll do you nicely all year round.

Drop-crotch trousers come, as you may have guessed, with a crotch seam that’s been “dropped” a few inches lower than normal. This gives them a streetwear vibe that has proved popular with rappers like Mr Kanye West in recent years, and they’re a good alternative to baggy trousers that don’t look, you know, too baggy. Their relaxed shape is a nod towards harem pants, too, but don’t worry, that’s as far as the association goes. These “Astaires” trousers from Rick Owens are a particularly refined iteration of the style, and are made in Italy from stretch virgin wool. We recommend pairing them with an oversized T-shirt to keep the silhouette loose and deconstructed – anything too tight up top will stretch out your torso, and nobody will be able to tell where your hips end and your knees begin. This one from Vetements is made from thick cotton that will work well with the trousers.