Two style mavens debate the pros and cons of streetwear versus suits.

Streetwear’s influence on the catwalk and, well, out on the street has been unstoppable in the past few years. And, with Mr Virgil Abloh dominating the conversation in fashion’s upper echelons at the moment, it shows no sign of abating. But what does this mean for the man who believes in a bit of traditional formality when it comes to getting dressed? What of the lesser-spotted suit? And shiny black Oxfords? And dress codes? Is this all lost in a sea of slim-fit tracksuit bottoms and DHL T-shirts?

We asked two men to debate the benefits of streetwear and smart attire. To discuss the former, we spoke to ex Hypebeast editor Mr Karl Smith. And for the latter, Mr Jamie Millar of Men’s Health. Whose side are you on?

Mr Jamie Millar, contributing editor, Men’s Health

There’s a reason why politicians wear suits. Or why you wouldn’t wear jeans to a wedding or a funeral, unless you were mourning the death of decorum. Fashion is often labelled trivial, but it affects how you’re perceived, even by yourself. One scientific study showed that donning a white lab coat improved people’s performance in tests. Conversely, I question the wisdom of investing in expensive, hard-to-get streetwear.

When I was a thrusting young digital editor for British GQ, I used to interview the cast of forthcoming films at junkets. (Yes, it’s exactly like that scene in Notting Hill.) I cultivated the habit of suiting and booting myself, in sharp contrast to the casually attired entertainment press, partly to make an impression and strike up a rapport within the five-minute slots, but also because I felt more confident in the presence of an A-lister. On my game. One of my professional heroes is Mr Gay Talese, author of such masterful profiles as “Frank Sinatra Has A Cold”, who believes in “dressing up for the story” in bespoke suits, handmade shoes and hat, however famous or anonymous his subject.

It’s not about the money spent so much as the time and effort, and the respect thereby shown for yourself and others. But far smarter to sink serious sums into classic pieces where your premium pays for superior craftsmanship, materials and lifespan, than on cheaply made hoodies and trainers whose only value is the inflated currency of hype. If for no other reason than that the trend-ulum will eventually, inevitably swing back to dapper.

Mr Karl Smith, former editor, Hypebeast UK

It’s hard to know exactly why, in 2018, streetwear as appropriate dress even needs defending. Where were these rallying cries back when they were desperately needed, when wearing a tracksuit in public was very much and all too often a point of not-even-thinly-veiled classist ridicule?

Nonetheless, here we are living in a world where I can feel more comfortable wearing a hoodie to the birthday party of someone I care about, to the pub or even, yes, shock and awe, to dinner, knowing that I will neither be alone in that nor the subject of scrutiny, more so than if I were subject to the creeping dread of a collared shirt and, God forbid, the tyranny of the tie.

Why should comfort be my, or anyone else’s, undoing? This far along the line, anyone still suggesting that “the suit maketh the man” needs to take a good long look at themselves in a brightly lit full-length mirror and ask some serious questions.

All things are cyclical, of course. Denim was once considered more or less to be exclusively the uniform of convicts (itself a crime, frankly). But, still, what does streetwear offer that more “traditional” forms of social body camouflage don’t? Like anything else, it’s a form of tribalism, I guess. And yes, I have my own far from original uniform of a black hoodie or sweatshirt, black trackpants, white socks, white sneakers and probably a black T-shirt somewhere underneath all that. With capital-F Fashion’s embracing of streetwear, though, these basic items don’t even need to be basic – somewhere between Gucci and Aries, between Balenciaga and adidas, there’s room to be as ostentatious or as low-key as you want.

It’s also a question of versatility, though. Sat here in a pair of Air Maxes rather than some blistering high-shine Derbies, not only is it easy to know that I’m comfortable and most likely around people with whom I’m comfortable being myself, it’s also safe to say, regardless of where the night ends up dragging me, I’m going to feel like I can do exactly as I please.

What more could you ask for?