THE JOURNAL

Let it be writ in the history books: throughout the 2020s, the most stylish men wore wide-leg trousers. Swinging away from the skinny trend that conspired to cut off our collective blood supply from the late 2000s to the mid-2010s (thank you, Hedi Slimane), trouser silhouettes have been getting progressively wider over the past decade. They’ve now reached a point where they are the dominant silhouette of the moment.
Running the gamut from simple straight-leg fits to ones that are loose and all-out baggy, the best trousers nowadays have plenty in common with the Oxford bags that university students wore in the early 20th century. The menswear runways, too, are filled with brands offering their own takes: Dries Van Noten and Grace Wales Bonner are two designers who have helped pioneer the trend, creating richly draped trousers that feel elegant, luxurious and breezy – as comfortable and easy to pull on as a pair of sweatpants, but eminently more sophisticated.
“Part of the joy of wearing wide-leg trousers is the drape, silhouette and fluidity you see when you’re walking,” says MR PORTER’s Style Director Benedict Browne.
This is all to say that, if your wardrobe doesn’t contain at least a few pairs of wide-leg trousers, you’re probably not dressing your best. If you’re not used to it, however, donning a pair of baggier pants can feel strange and uncharted. So, while there is no one true “right” way to wear wide-leg trousers, the below pointers will ensure you’re not wide of the mark.
01. Balance out your proportions
Wider pants often look best when their proportion is balanced out with a smaller item on top. Known as the “big pants, little shirt” look, it has become a go-to for trend-conscious guys over the last couple of years. It can be achieved by either downsizing to a fitted tank top or T-shirt if you’re cool with showing your body off. Or, for something on the safer side, a slightly cropped shirt, sweater or jacket.
For the latter, you’ll want to seek out brands whose silhouettes are boxy rather than long and drapey: CELINE HOMME’s knitted pullovers hit just above the waist, as do the sweaters by Story mfg. and the jackets by KAPITAL. Overall, this will help to create a silhouette that elongates the legs, looks intentional and avoid you getting swamped by excess fabric.
02. Choose the right footwear
“To counteract the roominess of a pair of wide-leg trousers, you need a slender shoe, like a penny loafer or a Gat sneaker,” Browne says. “Dressing well is all about playing with proportions – and throwing in a big, chunky shoe [with wide-leg trousers] doesn’t do that.”
If you want to get controversial and are prepared to defend your honour, hop on board with the biggest footwear trend of the summer: flip-flops. If anybody says anything, just show them Auralee’s spring/summer runway from this year, where the models wore flip-flops with wide-legged soft tailoring and looked excellent. Nobody argues with Auralee. As long as your tootsies are in good enough condition that they won’t elicit screams from the public, that is.
03. Get into painter pants
Painter pants, also known as carpenter pants, are durable trousers usually made from a thick cotton canvas in neutral shades like beige or cream that have a roomy, straight-leg fit. True to their name, they were originally designed for DIY-minded men who did lots of painting, chiselling and building with their strong, callused hands. (We used to be a proper country!) Nowadays painter pants are enjoying a renaissance among those of us whose hands are more used to carrying matcha lattes than mitre saws – but hey, they look great.
Search “canvas trousers” and delight in the bounty of pairs with double-knee detailing that you’ll find from workwear-minded brands such as Carhartt WIP, Cherry Los Angeles and Remi Relief.
04. Say “yes please” to pleats
For a more formal, dressy way to do wide legs, seek out pleated styles with a slight rise on the waist. “Pleated trousers require more thoughtful design, craft and material than non-pleated pants and are more expensive for a brand to make,” Browne says.
The drape on a pair of pleated pants also evokes a bygone time when guys really knew how to dress themselves. Have a gander at old pictures of Clark Gable and the Duke of Windsor for high-waisted wide-leg inspiration, as well as proof of the look’s timelessness.
For a great drape that also looks cosy, Browne recommends soft flannel fabrics made from wool or a cashmere blend. “For that, look no further than Loro Piana and The Row,” he says. When paired with an Oxford cloth button-up shirt or, when the weather gets cooler, an unstructured blazer or chore jacket, they will look effortless in the best way.
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