Richard Gere in American Gigolo, dressed in a billowy belted camel-hair polo coat by the late, great Giorgio Armani, is one of the references in the great canon of modern menswear. And for good reason: a belted coat is one of the most stylish pieces of outerwear a man can put on. It feels both as relaxed as a dressing gown and as smart as a suit, not to mention one of the only items of clothing that can truly be described as insouciant. The belt transforms the silhouette: cinch it tightly for more definition or knot it loosely for a casual drape. No surprise that Burberry makes some of the best, but you can also find some excellent options at Stòffa, a New York-based brand known for its superior fabrics and clean silhouettes.

Not, in fact, the title of a Yorgos Lanthimos film, the balmacaan is actually a genre of coat that takes its name from a Scottish estate not far from Loch Ness (where it supposedly first appeared, like a mythical creature, back in the 1800s). Single-breasted and with rounded raglan shoulders that lend it a bit of unruffled, billowy elegance, balmacaans are typically cut in weatherproof fabric such as tweed or gabardine for weathering the elements. More casual than double-breasted styles, a balmacaan will look as good with jeans and beaten-up sneakers as it will with tailored trousers and polished Derby shoes.

Borrowing from military dress codes and defined by its overlapping front flaps (handy for keeping the wind out), the double-breasted overcoat adds a sniff of Scarface-style sprezzatura to a look. More importantly, it has what all great coats should have: drama and gravitas. Functioning as two coats in one, it turns into a completely different look when worn open or closed. There are a lot of double-breasted options to choose from this season – see Nili Lotan, TOM FORD, Fear of God and Paul Smith for some of the most stylish.

Heritage checks were all over the AW25 runways in Paris and Milan, appearing at SAINT LAURENT, ZEGNA and Massimo Alba. This can be read as a swing away from the slouchy look and sweatpants that were popular a few years ago and back towards something much smarter. From glen plaid and houndstooth to herringbone and gun-club check, these old-world patterns and textures may nod to Savile Row classicism but they are now iconic enough not to feel old-fashioned or stuffy. The trend also means a fair number of coats in checked fabrics are now hitting the shelves, (this one from Mr. P is a handsome example as any).

Shearling is the cosiest of all coats, borrowing its power from sheep’s wool. The quality of the wool and its natural durability can also make a great shearling coat gaspingly expensive – though one from Brunello Cucinelli, for example, is designed to help you through a lifetime of cold weather. For something warm and versatile, look to BODE. The brand makes a reversible shearling coat inspired by similar styles from the 1950s. It’s as fluffy as a teddy bear on one side and smooth as suede on the other.