THE JOURNAL

Milan, January 2020. Photograph by Mr Jason Jean/Blaublut-Edition.com
This week’s question isn’t so much a query as a rather assertive statement. A demand, even. And given that in certain parts of Europe and North America right now, glacial temperatures pervade, the request for a preview of how to dress once the weather thaws might seem a tad presumptuous. Short-sleeved shirts and espadrilles seem a long way off when a hulking-great Canada Goose coat and stomping boots are your wardrobe go-tos as we steer through mid-February. But the spring collections have started to filter through and, with them, an optimistic eye as to what men will be wearing in the warmer months. Trends are a tricky game and I’m yet to meet the man who slavishly wants to wear looks straight off the catwalk, but there are certain adjustments that we’ll be making come spring. But first, our question/direct order.
So then, back to the short-sleeved shirt. Expect to see a lot of the camp-collar variety. That is, with a wide, spread collar, short of sleeve and loose of fit, and maximalist in terms of print and colour. It’s the antithesis of the continental white shirt you might associate with a certain Portofino glamour: tight, tucked in and showing off that tan like only a white shirt can. This iteration has a retro appeal, but isn’t painfully costume. It can be as discreetly patterned as you like or as high octane as one of Dolce & Gabbana’s silk explosions, but it always looks smart tucked into summer trousers and breezy with shorts.
The shirt’s happy bedfellow, the suit, continues its languorous stretch and yawn into more louche, soft-focus territory. This is a trend that’s dominated men’s tailoring for a while now and it shows no sign of abating. Suits come in softer silhouettes with looser proportions, sloping shoulders and relaxed cuts on jackets. While Mr Hedi Slimane at Celine does his best to promote the nipped-in, sharply tailored suit, the current tidal wave of relaxed tailoring, as seen at Giorgio Armani and Gucci, is still a big story. It happens to be ideal for formal spring events. Continental weddings are so much easier when your tailoring is airy and light.
You can expect stripes to make a reappearance in men’s suiting, but not in the classic pinstriped incarnation. Less obvious chalk stripes – wider and with less defined lines that mirror tailor’s chalk – will instead take centre stage alongside bold, thick stripes in contrasting hues.
This will also segue into rugby shirting. The grunt and thrust of the pitch inform sports attire this spring, although your approach should be more in the manner of Mr David Hockney, worn in a low-key way with soft blazers and jeans, instead of the full assault of the scrum. On the subject of suits, while we’re all for a bit of experimentation, we’d recommend that only the under-25s try out spring’s most polarising trend, the short suit.
At the more theatrical end of the style spectrum, spring exudes carefree, hedonistic and rock-star glamour. Sir Rod Stewart makes an unlikely guest appearance via leopard-print shirts and colourful tailoring, likewise Sir Elton John in the touches of electric pink and spangles on everything from knitwear to glasses, and there’s a hint of Sir Mick Jagger prowess in the proliferation of tie-dye and splashy floral patterns. Snake hips and pout optional.