THE JOURNAL
Illustration by Mr Nick Hardcastle
The bottles sommeliers crack open when they’re off duty.
There is only one thing more enlightening than asking an expert’s opinion when they are on the job. (In this case, you may be sat at a white-clothed restaurant table, nonplussed by a 20-bottle wine list.) And that’s enquiring how they indulge their passion during their downtime. One has the feeling that the information is more genuine and honest, somehow unaffected by the formalities of the profession, told with a tap of the nose and a wink. We tried this a while ago with chefs, and it was revelatory. And, in search of some new inspiration for our wine cellar (OK, cupboard) we decided to repeat the trick with some respected sommeliers. So, here are the bottles some of the world’s best wine buffs open when they’ve got their feet up.
Mr Xavier Rousset, master sommelier, Blandford Comptoir
Sottimano Barbaresco Fausoni 2011
“Barbaresco from top producer Sottimano in Piedmont always does it for me. What’s not to like about this wine? Power, complexity and elegance are brought together by skilful winemaking to get a perfect balance. Andrea Sottimano is a big fan of burgundy, and it shows. His wines have got the elegance of pinot noir with the firm grip one associates with the local nebbiolo grape variety. It is best to drink this in Piedmont with local dishes while gazing out over the amazing landscape.”
Mr Isa Bal, master sommelier, The Fat Duck
Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny
“I love syrah, cabernet franc and nebbiolo grape varieties, in that order, although I probably drink more cabernet franc. It tends to work really well in the Loire Valley and Italy and I am finding some increasingly good cabernet francs from Turkey, too. My go-to wine would be one based on this variety, often something from the Loire Valley, a chinon or saumur-champigny. When I can afford a bottle, it would be saumur-champigny from Clos Rougeard. The elegance, perfume and texture are out of this world.”
Mr Mathias Camilleri, head sommelier, The Five Fields
Meursault Pierre Boisson 2011
“Every sommelier recognises chardonnay as one of the best white grape varieties in the world. In France, in Burgundy, where the complexity of the soil and the expertise of the winemakers combine, chardonnay can thrive. Meursault Pierre Boisson 2011 is everything I love about burgundy: a nose developing aromas of freshly squeezed lemon, some delicate almond milk characters and a unique flinty minerality. In the palate it is highly complex, pure and gently creamy. It is a wine I enjoy for the aperitif, and can continue drinking it through a meal containing complementary flavours and textures, such as carpaccio of fish, poultry or truffles.”
Mr David Vareille, head sommelier, The Arts Club
Pascal Thomas Sancerre Vendange Manuelle Réserve 2015
“While a lot of us spend the summer quaffing Provençal rosé in the sunshine, I prefer something a little less typical when outdoors. Sauvignon blanc is not the most exciting grape variety from a sommelier’s point of view – the market is, sadly, heavily dominated by poor-quality wines – but this sancerre is one of the brightest examples. This wine is, for me, the best value for money I have ever tasted. But even more importantly, it is the benchmark, the ground zero of the grape variety. It has an original style, an oily asparagus texture, mature dry hay on the nose and green plums on the finish. It’s highly satisfying and extremely delicious.”
Mr Clement Robert, master sommelier and head sommelier, 28°–50° Maddox Street
Damien Laureau Le Bel Ouvrage 2010
“I love drinking chenin blanc. I did my sommelier training in the Loire Valley, a region where chenin is king. What I love about this grape is its different dimensions. Depending on its style and provenance, the wine can be bone dry and light, rich and powerful, or sweet yet refreshing. Chenin is one of the most underrated grapes on the planet. It is often delicious as a young wine, but it can also age 10 to 15 years depending on the style. It always shows aromas of baked apple and quince with some honey and mushroom notes. A young chenin shows mostly fruits, while a mature one would show truffle, caramel and honey. Superb to drink now, this bottle has enough age to show the amazing potential of a great chenin blanc.”
Ms Claire Thevenot, master sommelier and sales director, Wine Source
Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey Grand Vin Blanc 2015
“I am a white-wine lover, with a big crush on aromatic whites. Riesling is my go-to variety – either French, German or Austrian – but at the minute what I really enjoy is white bordeaux. Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey Grand Vin Blanc 2015 is my go-to bottle. It’s only the second vintage of this Sauternes Premier Grand Cru Classé, which is a rising star. It goes with anything from a picnic in the park, to chilli and lime squid, to poached salmon with minted Jersey royals. It’s made from sauvignon blanc and semillon with a slight lick of oak. Perfect.”