Mr Manolo Blahnik On South Korean New Wave, Socks With Sandals, And Why Style Is More Important Than Fashion

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Mr Manolo Blahnik On South Korean New Wave, Socks With Sandals, And Why Style Is More Important Than Fashion

Words by Mr Robert Johnston

3 November 2020

Mr Manolo Blahnik is, perhaps, the world’s most famous shoe designer. Best known for his women’s collections, the designer started out creating men’s shoes. Despite the switch, Mr Blahnik has always designed a limited number of pairs for gentlemen, mainly for his friends, including Messrs Bryan Ferry and David Hockney and Sir Mick Jagger. Thankfully, today you don’t need to be in his inner circle to access a pair, as his eponymous brand now produces a full men’s collection of classics for the modern-day dandy, which range from boots to brogues, sandals to loafers – you can now buy them on MR PORTER.

Born in the Canary Islands, Mr Blahnik moved to London in 1968. The exotic fashions of his early days in the city, which he­ describes a “peacock revolution”, sparked his passion for all things bright – one that has stayed with him ever since. “I love colour,” he says. “It refreshes eyes tired from all the minimal, pared-back fashions of recent years.”

As a sign of the power of his brand, Mr Blahnik is almost certainly one of only a select few shoe designers to have inspired a skit on Saturday Night Live. In the sketch, Mses Tina Fey (a huge fan of the brand), Vanessa Bayer and Cecily Strong create an infomercial for Manolo Blahnik in the hope of scoring some free shoes. “They’re like Rolls-Royces for your feet,” they claim at one point, while wearing them, they insist, is like “drinking lobster straight out the sink”. Praise indeed. So, here, in his own words, is how Mr Blahnik became a legend.

On his early life

“I was brought up on my mother’s family’s banana plantation in Santa Cruz de la Palma. We lived in a grand 19th-century mansion stuffed with antiques and my father’s Churchilliana collection, all slowly being turned to dust by the termites. My mother was my greatest influence. Although she would go on regular shopping sprees to Madrid and Paris, she was never satisfied with the shoes available in our hometown, so persuaded a local cobbler to teach her how to make her own while I looked on.”

On becoming a shoe designer

“I took some sketches to New York to show [Vogue editor] Diana Vreeland. She took one look and said imperiously, ‘Make things, make shoes’. So, I travelled to factories in Northampton to learn all I could about making lasts, cutting patterns and all the other technical know-how I needed. It took me 10 years to learn my craft.”

On his love of cinema

“The past is one of my greatest inspirations, along with cinema. I went to see the Italian director [Luchino] Visconti lecture in London in 1971 – it must have been when Death In Venice came out. No one was asking any questions so I nervously got to my feet and asked, ‘Why do you always choose to do your films in costume?’ He fixed me with his piercing eyes and replied, ‘Young man, without tradition we are nothing.’ I still love Alain Delon in Plein Soleil, but in bed, I binge-watch new films as well. One of my recent obsessions has been with the South Korean new wave and directors such as Kim Ki-duk, who is fascinated by the themes of twisted cruelty and violence.”

On where he finds inspiration

“Anywhere and everywhere. Next to every bed I sleep in – whether at home in Bath or in a hotel – there is a pad and pencil attached to a string. This way I can note down inspiration as it hits me, even in the middle of the night.

“This season, I turned to historically stylish men. To start, Beau Brummel – the original English dandy. I loved the way he changed masculine style in the 18th century, and his beautiful bespoke suits were divine. I also adored the Hollywood actor Gary Cooper. He was so effortless and uncontrived, and his style was immaculate both on- and off-screen. James Dean is another incredible source of inspiration – cool and defiant, yet practical and polished.

“There are lots of actors and musicians today who are very stylish. I particularly like James Norton – he’s a fabulous actor and always looks so well put-together.”

On dressing well

“Whether it’s a Savile Row suit, Cutler and Gross glasses or a simple T-shirt and jeans, discover what makes you feel most comfortable. Style is far more important than fashion. When I first met [the playwright] Tennessee Williams, I had already adopted my ‘uniform’ of a double-breasted suit and bow tie. He looked me up and down and said, ‘You look like I did when I sold shoes.’ I replied, ‘That’s what I do.’

“I always buy my suits from Anderson & Sheppard, dine at Wiltons and go to Green & Stone in Chelsea for art materials. And I have cornflakes and marmalade for breakfast every day. I like familiarity, especially with places. Sometimes you do not have to discover everything – new things more often than not are disappointing. I love habits, I only wish I could get into the habit of sleeping well. Which I don’t…”

On his favourite shoes in the MR PORTER collection

“I love the classic Witney brogues and the Delsa Chelsea boots, but my favourite style is the sandal – all sandals. For me, a beautiful suit paired with a rollneck and sandals – with socks – is the perfect winter uniform and so elegant. Not to everyone’s taste, perhaps, but I love the look.”

On his greatest love

“At the moment, I have nine dogs living with me, but I do have six more. I want to work for the rest of my life to provide food for animals. I prefer dogs to humans – they don’t ask for anything, they just want love and cuddles.”

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