How clean is too clean? MR PORTER researches the ultimate grooming routine.

There’s a scene in the 1970 film Performance starring Mr Mick Jagger and Ms Anita Pallenberg where they’re smoking a joint in the bath together, and Mr Mick Jagger’s character, Turner, a rock star recluse, asks Pherber, Ms Pallenberg’s character, “Do you think I should wash my hair?”

Ms Pallenberg gives it a quick sniff before replying, “No.”

However cool and carefree this may seem, we are not all virile immortals like Mr Jagger – and we can confirm definitively, once and for all, that the laissez-faire approach à la Mr Jagger and Ms Pallenberg is not the right way to look after your hair.

It is a common misconception that, if left to its own devices, hair will start to clean itself. However, hair does not generate magical “oils” that clean it “naturally”. That, my friend, is simply grease from pollution, sweat and testosterone, which serves to make your hair look lifeless, limp, and dirty. Another misconception is that failing to wash your hair will prevent or slow down male pattern baldness. This, again, is simply untrue. Male pattern baldness is caused by a gene which makes hair follicles shrink when the body starts producing testosterone, not by hot water, chemicals in shampoo, or anything else.

Mr Glenn Lyons of the Philip Kingsley Clinic, on London’s Harley Street, has been a trichologist specialising in hair loss and scalp conditions since 1968. “Your scalp is a major point of sweat and oil glands,” he says. “Sweat is a waste product and oil will give your hair a greasy appearance, which will make it look thinner. Whereas when you wash it, it becomes fluffy and voluminous.”

See haircare as comparable to skincare: “You wouldn’t clean your face just once a week. Your hair and scalp gets dirty and comes into the same pollution and dust as your face.”

To the men who worry about the hair they see falling out in the shower and bath, fret not: “That’s natural,” says Mr Lyons. “Hair is like skin and renews itself. Every three to five years, your hair is totally replaced with all new hair. It’s normal and healthy to shed. You have to lose a certain amount every day.”

Any special tips for washing hair? “Warm water and shampoo is the easiest way to get rid of pollutants, dirt, sweat and grease.” says Mr Lyons. “Male pattern baldness is genetic and can be helped by shampoos containing finasteride, but you should always see a doctor or consultant to get a proper diagnosis. Sometimes major stress or brushing your hair too vigorously can bring about hair loss, but [in these cases] it’s not long term.”

Regular hair washing and conditioning is also crucial for healthy looking hair, especially if you have dyed or permed your hair, or use wax and other styling products: “A build-up of product can make hair look dull and dry,” says Ms Zoë Passam, trichologist for the hair product brand Philip Kingsley. “Anyone that’s had their hair dyed, permed or put through any chemical process should definitely use a moisturising shampoo.”

Conditioner should be used by all men to maintain healthy hair, particularly if you wear it long: “For long, fine hair, use a lightweight volumising conditioner, and for curly hair, particularly Afro-Caribbean hair, you’ll need something that moisturises. Similarly, long hair is older and so will also need moisturising,” says Ms Passam.

Those with dandruff or other scalp conditions should get diagnosed by a trichologist and use a product that they recommend. But in all cases, regular washing, at least every 24 hours, is recommended. And it’s perfectly fine to wash more than once a day if needed. For instance, after playing sport or being in a dusty environment.

So, why are there so many mistruths and fake facts when it comes to hair care? “Hair is a very emotive subject,” says Mr Glynn Lyons. “People try to make money at the expense of the huge psychological and emotional impact of hair loss. If you’re worried about hair loss, it’s best to see a trichologist and get a proper diagnosis. We’re really proud of our ethics.”

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