THE JOURNAL
Photograph by Mr Jonathan Daniel Pryce
Our style experts answer your most pressing sartorial questions.
Often, we wear clothes not because we want to, but because we have to. It could be height, skin tone, or simply etiquette – there are myriad reasons why certain style choices must be made. We say this because this week we have a request from a gentleman who must accommodate a leg brace when getting dressed. Read our forensic diagnosis, below.
From necessity to luxury to working attire – we also deal with someone who is looking to invest a celebratory $1,000, and a chap who wants to dress himself for success. Something for everyone, then.
If you have your own question, email asky@mrporter.com or ask it on our social media channels. As always, we’ll answer the best three on Friday. Good luck!
**I’m graduating high school this June and would like to buy an investment piece, whether it’s clothing or an accessory. I want it to be something I’ll love, feel confident about and last a long time. I would like to keep it around $1,000. Any recommendations? I was thinking maybe a leather jacket but I’m not sure.
Mr Travis Harrison, via email **
May we first take the opportunity to congratulate you on your chosen method of celebration. Lesser men (probably most in the MR PORTER office included) would spend a similar amount on a few nights of excess. Well done Mr Harrison for choosing the more sophisticated route.
Anyway. A well-made leather jacket would be a fine investment, which will only look better the more you wear it. And, if it is a classic cut, such as this one by Belstaff or this by Beams Plus, it will never go out of style. However, you have to remember that you, unfortunately, will age, and so too will your fashion preferences. Some men feel uncomfortable wearing a leather jacket after a certain point in their life (Mr Jeff Goldblum still manages it at 65 – but we’re not all iconic film stars), so if you’re looking for real longevity, a style investment of a different kind might be more suitable.
Apart from a few trips to the cobbler for a resole, a good pair of shoes should last you a lifetime. And no one is too young or too old for a good pair of Oxfords or Derbies. If you’re looking for something smart, try these from John Lobb . If you want a pair that are more versatile (and hence make your investment go further) go for something a little more casual, like these Derbies from George Cleverley. If you look after them, these will become heirlooms.
However, if you’re commemorating an important milestone, there is something special about investing in a watch. Given your age, I imagine you would want something a little more contemporary in appearance. This watch from Junghans ticks that box, whilst retaining a classic feel. As does this timepiece from Sekford, which, with its gold rim, seems a little more traditional (if that’s your preference).
Now, time for some champagne.
Try these
**My name is Quinn and I am a senior in high school. I was wondering, what is a way to dress well while having a big clunky leg brace on?
Mr Quinn Plunkett, via email **
You should look at this less as a sartorial obstacle, Mr Plunkett, and more as the perfect opportunity to tell a story – lots of men are terrible at starting conversations, but you have been bestowed with the perfect icebreaker. Did you get tackled hard in rugby? Fall from a cliff? Fight off a leg-hungry bear? At your age, embellishment is your friend. And, when you perfect the art of it, everyone else will be your friend too.
Still, being well ’ard and well-dressed are two different things, so you might consider using your unusual accessory as an excuse to partake in the wide-legged trouser trend. These black jeans from Calvin Klein are extra-roomy in the leg, and the denim is heavy enough to hide any lumpiness caused by the brace. If your attachment is too big and too clunky that even the widest of trousers won’t fit however, there’s really nothing for it but to just em-brace it (apologies). This isn’t as bad as it sounds – have you seen the menswear shows recently? Gucci sent models down a hospital-themed runway carrying their own severed heads! In 2018, leg braces are sartorial child’s play. Show it off and attach this Off-White key fob to it, and get some of the brand’s high-top sneakers, too. They come with all manner of vivid tags and labels sprouting from them, and people will see your industrial sneaker and leg brace combination and assume you are simply ahead of the streetwear game, and before you know it you’ll have been cast in next season’s Vetements show. Hobble on!
Try these
As famously portrayed in movies like Wall Street, banking has traditionally been that most formal of white-collar occupations where power dressing like an alpha male was part of the job. However, dress codes at several of the bigger banks such as Goldman Sachs and JP Morgan have relaxed considerably in recent years, partly due to the influx of tech engineers and the entry-level recruitment of millennials. “Business casual” is now the operative phrase – which opens up far more options than a suit and tie, but also more scope for confusion.
When starting a new job, it is advisable to gauge the general vibe of the office before making any bold sartorial statements. So hang fire on the DB suit to begin with. Likewise any tailoring too garish in colour or pattern. First impressions last longer if they are memorably misjudged.
You cannot go far wrong with a well-fitted navy or charcoal grey single-breasted suit in simple worsted wool or flannel. Paul Smith and Richard James would be the go-to suggestions for English-style tailoring; Canali or Boglioli if you prefer something Italian. P. Johnson suits are certainly worth checking out too.
Playing it safe with dark tailoring does not necessarily mean boring, however. You can dress up a suit with the right accessories – and Drake’s ties and pocket squares would be a first port of call. Consider these polka dot knit ties from Richard James and socks from London Sock Co.
Once you’ve taken the temperature of the office, then you can judge whether or not double-breasted tailoring is a good idea. But even then, a soft-shouldered DB blazer such as this one from Lardini is going to be more versatile than a full-on Gordon Gekko-style power suit such as this Kingsman number.
Try these
