THE JOURNAL
A suit is a fine thing, but a matching one can sometimes feel a tad too predictable. Enter spezzato, the Italian art of splitting a suit into separate pieces and wearing them apart. The word loosely translates as “broken”, though there is nothing damaged about the result. This logic is a natural fit for Neapolitan tailoring, where soft, unstructured jackets already hold their own. However, it works with sharper tailoring, too. The difference between doing it right and looking like you’ve lost half the suit comes down to three adjustments, below.
01. Rethink what’s underneath
Begin with what sits beneath the jacket. Swap a crisp white shirt and tie for a fine-gauge cotton T-shirt or a knitted polo, and the whole outfit recalibrates. The tailoring stays sharp, but the mood loosens up a bit. A navy jacket over a white tee is the simplest expression of the idea, while a knitted polo adds a little more character. “For the colder months, knits are always a good option, particularly something with a high neck, such as a funnel neck or rollneck,” says Kit Swann, MR PORTER’s Fashion Editor. “From there, you can start to think about adding texture through the type of knit – perhaps a Donegal for something thicker, or cashmere for a lighter option.” Keep the fit close but never tight, and choose fabrics with some weight, since a light jersey will undermine the structure above it.
02. Keep it casual with jeans
Denim is the most natural partner for a suit jacket, provided you respect a few rules. Choose a dark, clean wash in a straight or slightly tapered cut, with no rips, fading or distressing. The jacket should be softly constructed, ideally unlined or lightly padded, so it sits comfortably beside something so casual. “A single-breasted blazer is a classic and good for showing off the layers underneath, but an undone double-breasted blazer can feel a touch more relaxed yet elevated,” Swann says. Wear it with a plain shirt or knit, loafers or clean leather sneakers; the contrast is one of the easiest ways to take a suit out of the office and into the weekend.
03. Let the cloth do the talking
Finally, consider the cloth itself. A suit jacket in suede, corduroy or tweed carries its own weight and rarely needs matching trousers. Corduroy brings warmth and a slight academic air, tweed leans on heritage and robust texture, while suede offers a smooth, luxurious finish that looks best in earthy tones. Wear any of them with flannel or wool trousers in a complementary shade – keep the palette tonal so the fabric takes centre stage. A change of weave can offer a similar level of depth, Swann says. “Opting for a check or stripe, can create a really nice juxtaposition with plainer trousers.”