THE JOURNAL
Knitwear? Knit-everywhere, more like. With the arrival of what can be officially classified as “sweater weather”, it’s worth remembering that other options are available. And also that knitwear has changed. Or hasn’t. You see, a woollen jumper isn’t just an adaptable layer for unsettled conditions, it’s also a piece that is open to reinterpretation. And, boy, have some designers reinterpreted it.
Benedict Browne, MR PORTER’s Style Director, points to the emergence of the “statement sweater”. “Knitwear has become significantly more fashionable and visually interesting,” he says. “It’s often seen as the main event more than the supporting role that it once was, as shown by the number of established and specialist designers who are investing more time and creative resources into creating special pieces.”
Across this season’s collections, you’ll see knitwear in eye-popping colours and fashion-forward shapes. But equally, you’ll note a revival of heritage crafts and details, such as the flecks or “neps” of the Donegal tradition. Occasionally all in the same knit. Below, we unravel woollen wear for AW26.
01. The crew neck
“The crew neck is the standard style of knitwear that’s prevailed throughout the course of time to becoming an essential,” Browne says. “Whether layered with a T-shirt or a shirt beneath, or even worn against the skin, it has the innate ability to add an extra layer of warmth and depth to any outfit.”
What might be different this time around is the sheer breadth of textures, patterns and colours available. A cursory browse of the new collections shows bright colours, such as Klein blue, featuring prominently – see TOM FORD, Paul Smith and Mr P. For muted-yet-compelling colours and classic styles, try Auralee and Inis Méain, respectively.
02. The V-neck
“Similar to crew necks, V-neck jumpers have been around forever and a day, though they have become incredibly more fashionable and chicer in recent years,” Browne says. “Some have sportier connotations – think cricket jumpers from Polo Ralph Lauren – and can too be layered easily with other garments or styled by themselves. A shorter body pairs well with high-waisted trousers, while thinner necklines seen via The Row tend to be considered smarter and cleaner. They’re also available as sleeveless options.”
03. The cardigan
“Cardigans offer a versatility few other garments can match, sitting somewhere between jacket and jumper,” Browne says. “The range of designs varies from chunky shawl collars to trending crew necks and even double-breasted options. Styles from the likes of Ralph Lauren Purple Label will be perfect for the depths of winter, while cotton or merino zip-throughs from NN07 will serve as dependable mid-layer staples perfect for work and leisure. For a showstopper, look no further than Dries Van Noten.”
04. The rollneck
“The rollneck is a staple of menswear,” Browne says. “It’s inherently practical for keeping your neck warm. Some styles from the likes of John Smedley ensure a uniform-like look and are a great alternative to a shirt when paired with traditional tailoring, while the intricate and dense options from Brunello Cucinelli hit that quiet-luxury sweet spot.”
05. The polo shirt
“Polo shirts tread the line between sporty and smart, with roots in tennis and golf that have long transcended their athletic origins,” Browne says. “Traditionally cut from breathable cotton piqué, they’re now available in everything from silk blends to wool knits and in different weights, too. Open-collar styles give a relaxed, confident feel, while buttoned-up versions can look incredibly polished.” Lardini and Mr P. present the former, while you can look to Dunhill, Drake’s or William Lockie for the latter.
06. The zip-up knit
“Quarter-zips, half-zips and zip-through knits have received some unfair attention, thanks to associations with poorly dressed financiers,” Browne says. “However, we very much see their merits; they’re simple, practical, help frame the face and some styles can be contemporary and cool and differ in weight and design. Inis Meáin has all bases covered, while Canali and Sease offer tasteful quarter-zips that are perfect for work.”
Know your knit structures
“The structure of the knit has a huge effect on the look of the garment,” Browne says. “Plain weaves are simple and streamlined, while complex arrangements – such as a dense Arran knit – not only offer a distinct look, but also ensure greater performance by keeping you warm in winter.”
Intarsia knit
Intarsia knits feature bold, blocky patterns with distinct colour sections. It’s a technique that elevates sweaters and knits, making them visually striking.
Ribbed knit
Ribbed knit plays with vertical lines formed by alternating stitches. Its texture provides natural stretch and resilience, making it perfect for cuffs, collars and fitted garments. It balances functionality with refined detail, adding subtle sophistication to any knitwear piece.
Cable knit
Cable knit is synonymous with heritage and craftsmanship. Its iconic braided patterns create a textured, sculptural effect that feels both rugged and refined. Traditionally associated with Irish fishermen, it’s a timeless design that lends warmth and character to sweaters and scarves alike.
Jacquard knit
Jacquard knit features intricate, woven patterns integrated into the fabric itself. Complex and detailed, it allows for multiple colours and motifs, producing elegant, decorative designs. This technique transforms simple knitwear into a canvas of artistry, perfect for those seeking something distinctive yet polished. Look out for reindeer motifs from Moncler to Argyles from NN07 and snowflakes from Thom Browne.
Fair Isle knit
Originating from Scotland’s Fair Isle, this knitting technique uses small, repeating multicoloured patterns. Its harmonious, intricate designs are created by carrying multiple yarns across the back, resulting in a warm, textured garment rich in tradition, heritage and visual interest.