THE JOURNAL
Utility trousers come in all shapes, forms and functions. Cargo styles were initially made for soldiers; carpenter and painter’s trousers were designed to fit tools while fatigue pants were cut to facilitate movement and durability. Despite their humble beginnings, the drawstring waists, patch pockets, tool loops and a field-inspired coloured palette of utility trousers have all left their mark on everyday dressing. Today, they are championed by anyone from heritage workwear labels to luxury brands and more contemporary designers. The result is an offering that’s as varied as its origins – and just as adaptable. A single pair can anchor a faded, vintage-leaning outfit one day and a smarter, shirt-and-loafer look the next. Here, Kit Swann, MR PORTER’s Fashion Editor, breaks down three distinct approaches.
01. Break them in
“People like Jeremy Allen White and Austin Butler have fuelled a general pull towards a vintage aesthetic, wearing sun-faded Carhartt trousers,” Swann says. “Brands like A.PRESSE have long championed this look, with loose-fit utility trousers working well with slim tops, while straighter fits pair nicely with oversized, broken-in Oxford shirts.”
The formula is simple: let the trousers carry the lived-in texture and fading. Leave the proportions to do the work up top.
02. Tonal work
If you find yourself overthinking what to wear, tonal dressing offers a reliable shortcut. “The subtle shifts in colour create a deliberate point of interest, while taking the guesswork out of colour pairings for you,” Swann says. Think shades of brown, olive green against slate or stone, or gradients of grey layered together – the kind of colour combinations that look like they took real consideration, without asking much of you at all.
03. Dress them up
The most counterintuitive way to wear utility trousers may also be the most satisfying to pull off. “Utility trousers are an easy way to achieve the juxtaposition of formal and casual,” Swann says. “Pair them with a striped or plain cotton shirt, tucked or untucked and finish with a well-loved pair of loafers.”
The contrast between the trousers’ workwear pedigree and the shirt-and-loafer polish is what makes the look. Slightly worn-in loafers or deck shoes keep it from feeling too formal.