THE JOURNAL
Messrs Robert Redford and Paul Newman in Butch Cassidy And The Sundance Kid (1969). Photograph by THA/Shutterstock
The cowboy comes and goes as a pop-cultural force, but his sartorial allure persists as a steady electrical current. For much of the 20th century, Americans were captivated by the haunting strum of Mr Hank Williams’ guitar, the spirted yodel of Mr Roy Rogers and the vibrant costumes of Messrs Nudie Cohn, Nathan Turk and Manuel Cuevas. The romanticisation of the American West even spread across borders. When Mr Sergio Leone released his 1964 blockbuster hit A Fistful Of Dollars, the film spawned a new genre, the spaghetti western, which revolved around the idea of a laconic American cowboy.
What is it about the American West that makes it so compelling? Millions of people who have never stepped foot on a ranch see working under an open sky as enviable – even noble. At its core, much of this has to do with the glorification of nature itself.
Ever since the dawn of industrialisation, factory-line labourers and desk-bound clerks yearned for time away from polluted cities, where they could breathe fresh, crisp air and reconnect with the simplicity of nature. Against this backdrop, the wilderness took on new meaning, becoming a place of rest and relaxation. This is why fashion has always had an outdoor theme somewhere – a spiritual connection with the great outdoors signals one’s elevated status.
The semiotics of westernwear persist, with items as simple as pull-on boots and snap-button shirts symbolising self-reliance, optimism and rugged individualism. And the style is popular again for the same reasons. Artists such as Beyoncé and Lil Nas X, who have reintroduced country themes to popular culture, now standing where Williams and Rogers rode nearly a century ago. They’ve given these sounds and aesthetics a fresh paint job, making them appealing to a new audience.
And many of today’s workers still dream of being able to unshackle themselves from their desks and spend time outdoors. Westernwear hints at qualities we wish to see in ourselves – plus, the clothes look really good. Here are a few ways to incorporate it into your wardrobe.
01. The western shirt
If you’re unsure about whether you can pull off this aesthetic, know that you don’t have to go full yeehaw. Instead, start with a simple western shirt. Something from Polo Ralph Lauren or this classic piece by Nudie Jeans, which is part of MR PORTER’s Consciously Crafted collections. A similar shirt can be worn with everything from chore coats to tailored tweeds (look up Mr Les Goldberg’s photo of Mr Ralph Lauren in the 1970s, where you can see the designer wearing a grey tweed jacket with a pair of blue jeans, tan boots and a washed denim western shirt, looking as cool as ever). A western shirt is a natural accompaniment to workwear staples such as trucker jackets, but can also be used to knock out some of the stiff formality that can be inherent in tailoring.
For your first western shirt, stick to blue denim, as it’s the safest and most versatile option. Other useful materials include rayon and chambray for spring and then moleskin and needlecord for fall. The offbeat Japanese workwear label KAPITAL even has a Jacquard-woven western shirt with feathers and frayed edges for people who dress like bohemian magpies. You can wear that open over a ribbed tank and pair the two with KAPITAL’s crocheted bones jeans. The power of a western shirt is that it adds variety to any wardrobe, breaking up what might otherwise be a fairly predictable Oxford button-down and flannel rotation.
02. The cowboy boot
A good pair of boots can really bring this look into its own. Broadly speaking, there are two types of western boots: the unabashed cowboy boot and the more utilitarian roper. Both descending from the high-topped boots once worn by US cavalry officers and Spanish vaqueros who populated the American Southwest, these two styles mainly differ in the height of their shaft and heel. Cowboy boots are distinguished by their high tops and elevated heels, which are often, but not always, accompanied by a sharper toe. Meanwhile, ropers have a lower shaft and regular heel, giving the wearer a steadier feel on the ground.
Given their more distinctive silhouette and often decorated toe box, cowboy boots look more at home with other westernwear pieces, such as snap-button shirts and bootcut pants. By contrast, the more pared-back design of a roper allows it to do double-duty, spanning anywhere from westernwear to workwear. Get a pair of cowboy boots if you really want to lean into this look, but know that the roper is always available if you’re just testing the waters.
Other footwear designs can also be swapped into this wardrobe. Dries Van Noten’s side-zip boots – available this season in suede and calf hair – add a touch of nonchalance reminiscent of the better parts of the 1970s.
Similarly, R.M.Williams’ Chelsea boots are a natural choice for any westernwear outfit. Consider those if you want something conservative enough you can wear to the office.
03. The bootcut pants
Fifteen years ago, style writers used the term “bootcut jeans” as a shorthand to describe a regrettable outfit. But after almost two decades of slim-fit hegemony, people are starting to open up to the possibilities of other silhouettes.
Bootcut jeans range anywhere from the barely-there flare of Polo Ralph Lauren to the 1970s flower child cut of KAPITAL. The wider hems slip easily over the tops of boots, but you can still team them with sneakers and loafers. Mr Lenny Kravitz has even been known to wear bootcut jeans with flip flops.
For style inspiration, look up photos of Mr Robert Redford during the 1970s, when he was often photographed wearing flared pants with trucker jackets, turtlenecks and tailored tweeds. The key is to get the right tailoring. These pants call for slightly longer jackets with padded shoulders and wider lapels. You want to hear the 1970s playing in the back of your mind when you put these clothes on.
04. Headgear and accessories
Finally, don’t forget the finishing touches: a bandana jauntily tied around your neck (points tucked in or left out, your choice) and a three-piece belt to be worn with bootcut jeans. While Jacques Marie Mage’s centre of gravity isn’t in westernwear, its Japanese-made eyewear frames look great with this aesthetic and will make you feel like a movie star hiding from paparazzi.
These accessories not only add visual interest, they allow you to move up or down the westernwear scale, so you can feel as yeehaw as you want on any given day.